Router table top
#10
I would like to make a new top for my router table. Mine sags in the middle after 30 years. Is there a way to perfectly cut out the hole for the 9 1/4 by 11 3/4  router plate with the rounded corners? I have levelers ( I guess ) in my current table to put in the new table, if I can machine the plate in.

Thanks  Greg
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#11
(07-10-2022, 06:21 PM)Gregor1 Wrote: I would like to make a new top for my router table. Mine sags in the middle after 30 years. Is there a way to perfectly cut out the hole for the 9 1/4 by 11 3/4  router plate with the rounded corners? I have levelers ( I guess ) in my current table to put in the new table, if I can machine the plate in.

Thanks  Greg

Pretty much all of the plate producers have a template to perfectly size a cutout for their plates. 

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/insta...gKbIvD_BwE
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#12
I was wondering if there was a template available to cut that opening. You answered that question, Thank You ! Then while sitting here looking at that $30 template, it struck me, that looks exactly like the hole in my present router table top. Duh ! Though it sags slightly in the middle, I could still use it as a template.
I plan to use 2 pieces of 3/4" melamine, glued and screwed together, with a T-track machined in, that will accept my Incra miter gauge. Some day if I win the lottery, I may add a router lift.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#13
A pattern bit in your router , and you’re off to the races.
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#14
(07-10-2022, 06:21 PM)Gregor1 Wrote: I would like to make a new top for my router table. Mine sags in the middle after 30 years. Is there a way to perfectly cut out the hole for the 9 1/4 by 11 3/4  router plate with the rounded corners? I have levelers ( I guess ) in my current table to put in the new table, if I can machine the plate in.

Thanks  Greg

I was faced with cutting out a 36" diameter table top.  Most would pattern cut it with a router.  I thought..... I split lines when cutting dovetails and tenons why can't I split a line with a saber saw or whatever they are called now days.  Well, in fact I could.  I would trace the pattern I needed, drill a hole to start the blade and simply, and carefully saw it.  (practice first)  When successful you will use this capability elsewhere.  Good light is essential.  Smooth as needed with a rasp or file.  Blade needs to have set or it will deflect when cutting the arc.
Bill Tindall
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#15
I have NEVER been that good with a saber saw, unless of course I use a wide magic marker, and wear reading glasses.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#16
Give this some thought, you need a ledge for the plate to sit on. Cutting the through hole/opening with a sabre saw that's a little smaller then the plate, the routing the ledge in with a template works well. Of course you could cut the through hole/opening the same size as the plate and then screw something to the inside for the ledge, but I like the machined-in ledge.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#17
I have a leveling systyem in my present router table, to position the plate. It acts as the ledge.
   
      I also keep a small crescent wrench in my router table. I don't trust myself to get the thumb screw on the router clamp tight enough with just my fingers anymore. I tweak it.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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#18
When I made my router table opening I just used 4 straight pieces of wood. Make sure the thickness of the sticks is a little more than the cutting height of a pattern cutting bit. The bit I used is 1/2" diameter, 1/2" cutting depth. 5/8" thick sticks worked okay. It so happened that the radius required by the plate was matched by a 1/2" pattern cutting bit. I positioned the plate where I wanted it and used good double sided tape to fasten two of the sticks to either side of the router plate. These need to be exact length. The second pair of sticks were stuck down perpendicular and touching the first pair. Plunge the pattern cutting bit in the field to be cut and move it out so the pattern cutting bit's bearing contacts one of the 4 sticks and route as usual. Making the first pass shallow is a good idea. Once the pattern bit is cutting slightly deeper than the router plate stop. Remove the taped down sticks and cut out the field inside the routed out portion. I used a jig saw. This cut isn't fussy, it's just a clearance opening for the router.

The reason I said route the rim where the plate sits slightly deeper is to be able to adjust the height of the router plate so it's flush with the table top. I just used a layer or two of masking tape. I could use flat headed screws or something like that. I did learn one lesson doing this. Make sure all the surfaces that the double stick tape are stuck to are smooth. Double stick tape doesn't stick as well to even slightly rough surfaces and a stick might move a little. Oh well, nothing a bit of wood filler wouldn't fix.
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