Question splicing 4/0
#7
I'm planning to upgrade the service to my shop/barn to at least 100a. I scored enough 4/0 cu THHN (and 2/0 for ground) to run the 80' shop to house, thru the 36'house, and 24' garage which is where I would like to move the new service entrance. (upgraded to 200a) The wires have already been cut at 109' and 48' (3, 4/0 and a 2/0 for each length) This leaves approx. 17' for drops and risers and panel connections. It's tight, but I will need a splice about midway in the house basement. I also scored 120' of 3" E.M.T., with sweeps, connectors, clamps ect..  I have a 200a disconnect that's huge! I looked at codes and from what I'm reading, they want 8 times the trade size of the largest conduit for a junction or pull box. That's 24"! They were spliced in an 8"x8"x4" box for an X-ray for about 2 years and I know it was inspected and passed. It was plenty big enough for what it needed to accomplish. I can see if it was a pull box and the loop in the wires had to be pressed back into the box, but even a 200 a meter socket isn't that big and a "conduit fill chart" says that needs 3" conduit for the wires needed for 200a.

So the question is; What have you done? Or, what is allowable? One, non electrician tradesman, who knows the Electrical Inspector suggested to just use the 8" box and call upon the Inspectors common sense and intent of the code to prevent damage to the insulation. I could always cut the E.M.T. 16" shorter and install a 4" x 4" x 24" wireway with end caps if necessary. Would that meet the code? If I staggered In-line splices, they would physically fit in the 3", (and nobody would be the wiser.) but I would rather not do that. 

Suggestions?
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#8
They ain't cheap

3/0 and smaller

Polaris Insul-Tap IT-3/0

You're going to pay north of $100 per connection.

Probably cheaper to sell your 250a conductor and buy a full length of 200a. Assuming you even need 200a
Neil Summers Home Inspections


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... Grey Mountain 3/2/21

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#9
(08-29-2022, 10:18 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: They ain't cheap

3/0 and smaller

Polaris Insul-Tap IT-3/0

You're going to pay north of $100 per connection.

Probably cheaper to sell your 250a conductor and buy a full length of 200a. Assuming you even need 200a

Something like these if you want a inline splice.   A lot cheaper and they are 4/0.    Before you were talking a 100a panel, the lugs on a 100a panel will not take 4/0 so stay with a 200a panel.  The gutter idea may be the best way if it has to be 24".    Besides not being legal splicing inside a conduit may not be a good idea because any failure will be at a connection.   Roly
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#10
Thanks guys, I actually have a few like Snipe Hunter linked to but they're 3 conductor. I can use a split bolt connector for the #2 ground and ground the wireway and EMT too. As for a 200a service; I know I need, at the very least, better conductors between the meter (which will be relocated) and my main panel as well as from there to my shop. With 200a, I'll get larger conductors from the pole to meter as well.

I also spread the word that I was looking for about 100' of 3" PVC conduit. 80' was being dropped off at my shop when I pulled into the driveway this afternoon. That's all he had, so he also gave me about 40' of 3" PVC drain pipe. I can use that when I raise the roof on my wife's attached garage (hence the new meter location), because I found at least 1 more 3" conduit in my "stock pile".


So I'm leaning towards just installing the 4" wireway. I can't find any code that says it can or is a junction or pull box, only some wording about connections and switches in wireways. So as this is evolving, I am planning on running the PVC conduit straight thru the foundation below grade. Outside of no sweeps, expansion joints, or LB's, and less wire; it's mostly because if I did bring it up to go thru the rim joist I'd have to go right back down inside to avoid my main sewer drain that's only a few inches below the joists. It would continue straight into the lower side of the "huge disconnect" I mentioned. 

I also learned that power from the solar panels (30-40a @240v) has to go to a seperate meter and disconnect next to my main meter drop. It's my understanding the Fire Dept. wants a single, main shut-off at the meter drop. So, whether there's new service or not, can I connect the input of my main panel to the "huge disconnect" input with power from the main shut-off going to either one?

The solar panels (8-10 kw) will be going on my shop roof. As soon as I find out what size conduit they need, I'll be asking around for that too.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#11
(09-02-2022, 10:48 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Thanks guys, I actually have a few like Snipe Hunter linked to but they're 3 conductor. I can use a split bolt connector for the #2 ground and ground the wireway and EMT too. As for a 200a service; I know I need, at the very least, better conductors between the meter (which will be relocated) and my main panel as well as from there to my shop. With 200a, I'll get larger conductors from the pole to meter as well.

I also spread the word that I was looking for about 100' of 3" PVC conduit. 80' was being dropped off at my shop when I pulled into the driveway this afternoon. That's all he had, so he also gave me about 40' of 3" PVC drain pipe. I can use that when I raise the roof on my wife's attached garage (hence the new meter location), because I found at least 1 more 3" conduit in my "stock pile".


So I'm leaning towards just installing the 4" wireway. I can't find any code that says it can or is a junction or pull box, only some wording about connections and switches in wireways. So as this is evolving, I am planning on running the PVC conduit straight thru the foundation below grade. Outside of no sweeps, expansion joints, or LB's, and less wire; it's mostly because if I did bring it up to go thru the rim joist I'd have to go right back down inside to avoid my main sewer drain that's only a few inches below the joists. It would continue straight into the lower side of the "huge disconnect" I mentioned. 

I also learned that power from the solar panels (30-40a @240v) has to go to a seperate meter and disconnect next to my main meter drop. It's my understanding the Fire Dept. wants a single, main shut-off at the meter drop. So, whether there's new service or not, can I connect the input of my main panel to the "huge disconnect" input with power from the main shut-off going to either one?

The solar panels (8-10 kw) will be going on my shop roof. As soon as I find out what size conduit they need, I'll be asking around for that too.

Just fyi the pvc drain pipe is not code for electrical use.   Roly
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#12
I used similar to these to splice 2-2-2-4 wire after a backhoe cut the feed to my shop. I installed those, then coated them with liquid tape, then installed heat shrink tube, then sealed the ends with liquid tape, then installed longer pieces of heat string, then sealed the ends of that again, then buried it. That was 8 years ago and AFIK it's still working/

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Butt-...lsrc=aw.ds

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