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09-07-2022, 09:16 PM
I purchased this Freud 99-764 rail and stile router bit set with high hopes, looks and feels high quality.
As discussed in their instructional videos, the bits are supposed to manage the thinner 5.5mm ( 7/32") plywood panels nicely.
I've removed all shims on the stile cutter ( and reduced it down to one cutter blade ) and now the groove in the stile is a perfect fit
for receiving the 7/32" plywood. However, the stub tenons on the rail ends are too thick and won't go into the grooves and I've already removed all possible shims
from the cutter for the rail ends.
Has anyone else experienced this same problem and how did you solve it?
The only only thing I've been able to do is perform two passes on the rail ends, raising the rail end cutter slightly on the second pass to thin the stub tenon, but of
course this is a pain and is time consuming.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
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I've had difficulties matching the tenon to the groove too. I just checked out a poster for "Freud’s Premier Adjustable Cabinet Door Set" and the only thing I noticed was directions for adjusting the groove to fit the stub tenon. I'm guessing it's too late for that now. However, it does show both are adjustable from 7/32-3/8". Is there is a coating or burr keeping the bearing from contacting both halves of the coping cutter? Is the bearing itself thicker than the one on the stile bit? If not, do you have a thinner bearing with the same I.D. & O.D.? For that matter, do you even need to use a bearing? I use a thick push block (vs. a sled) with a handle that has been coped on one side to minimise chipping on the stile profile and sandpaper on another side to prevent slipping. I don't think that bearing actually does anything for me.
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(09-07-2022, 10:15 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: I've had difficulties matching the tenon to the groove too. I just checked out a poster for "Freud’s Premier Adjustable Cabinet Door Set" and the only thing I noticed was directions for adjusting the groove to fit the stub tenon. I'm guessing it's too late for that now. However, it does show both are adjustable from 7/32-3/8". Is there is a coating or burr keeping the bearing from contacting both halves of the coping cutter? Is the bearing itself thicker than the one on the stile bit? If not, do you have a thinner bearing with the same I.D. & O.D.? For that matter, do you even need to use a bearing? I use a thick push block (vs. a sled) with a handle that has been coped on one side to minimise chipping on the stile profile and sandpaper on another side to prevent slipping. I don't think that bearing actually does anything for me.
Thank you, I think that's a good idea, experimenting to make the groove slightly wider so that the tenon will fit, hopefully not so wide that the plywood will start to rattle.
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Actually I was suggesting experimenting with the bearing on the cope cutter. If that is taller than the the slot that the two wing cutters make (without any shims) then it's too tall. Perhaps the one on the stile cutter is a little shorter. There's also an 800 number on that poster for assistance with set-up.
https://www.freudtools.com/files/restric...poster.pdf
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(09-08-2022, 07:07 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Actually I was suggesting experimenting with the bearing on the cope cutter. If that is taller than the the slot that the two wing cutters make (without any shims) then it's too tall. Perhaps the one on the stile cutter is a little shorter. There's also an 800 number on that poster for assistance with set-up.
https://www.freudtools.com/files/restric...poster.pdf
Actually, now that I recall it, there is no further adjustment for the groove on the stile side, I've removed one of the blades and the groove is now just the right size.
If I put back in the second blade it jumps up to a 5/16" groove. I'll take another look at the cope cutter, thanks
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(09-08-2022, 07:25 AM)davco Wrote: Actually, now that I recall it, there is no further adjustment for the groove on the stile side, I've removed one of the blades and the groove is now just the right size.
If I put back in the second blade it jumps up to a 5/16" groove. I'll take another look at the cope cutter, thanks
Don't remove both blades. instead swap them top to bottom then shim to make adjustments . I'm pretty sure the carbide tooth is off set on each blade .
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Don's woodshop
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(09-08-2022, 08:13 AM)Woodshop Wrote: Don't remove both blades. instead swap them top to bottom then shim to make adjustments . I'm pretty sure the carbide tooth is off set on each blade .
Hmm, so if you swap them top to bottom they get thinner? Cool, I'll try that, thanks
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09-10-2022, 06:44 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-10-2022, 06:45 PM by davco.)
(09-08-2022, 08:13 AM)Woodshop Wrote: Don't remove both blades. instead swap them top to bottom then shim to make adjustments . I'm pretty sure the carbide tooth is off set on each blade .
You were right! Swapping the blades gave a 7/32" slot. My calipers measure the slot at 7/32", unfortunately, the plywood is 3/16" oh well, maybe a touch of silicone adhesive or just let the 1/32" gap slide.
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(09-10-2022, 06:44 PM)davco Wrote: You were right! Swapping the blades gave a 7/32" slot. My calipers measure the slot at 7/32", unfortunately, the plywood is 3/16" oh well, maybe a touch of silicone adhesive or just let the 1/32" gap slide.
I had a similar problem with 'undersized' plywood. I just covered both sides of the slot with masking tape and put a few dabs of silicone in the slot. I figured plywood doesn't move much at all and silicone would stay flexible enough after curing that I wouldn't have a problem. It's been 25 years and no problems.
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