Ripping a Stopped bevel?
Might I suggest a Lock Miter bit on a router table? This will keep the pieces aligned during the glue up and you can stop the cut any time you want leaving the overhanging piece uncut.
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This is one of the best videos on mitred joinery of the type under discussion here …

Regards from Perth

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(09-15-2022, 05:33 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: I know you meant 3” and this is basically the plan.
I’ve done 8’ long, 45-degree outside corner bevels.

No, I actually did mean 3'. Just enough to hold the joint together while I run tape lengthwise. If/when I add more across the joint, I leave them long enough to be my "clamps".

Last summer we stripped vinyl siding off a ranch and re-clad it with cedar claps and P.V.C. trim. It was tough finding a router bit large enough to to make the cut, but it was well worth the effort. I made nine 9' outside corners in about two hours. Instead of 1x4 and 1x5, I ran the tape and cut a vee in the center of a 1x10 in two passes, leaving about 3/64"(and the tape) holding it together. I used a few tubes of White Hot adhesive and tape for the glue up.
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Thanks for the link Derek! Very informative.
You may already have a plan but if I'm looking at your test glue-up right here's a thought.


I've marked in red what I understand to be the area that is without an inside bevel for the purpose of gluing up the faux box beam.

What about just going ahead and making the bevel all the way along and then gluing back on a piece to restore the "squareness" of the end(s)?
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Your interpretation is correct—although there’s a similar section on the other end.
I used “raise the blade” into the cut and it was easy.
The start is the difficult part.
I clamped a beam over the fence to hold the board down for the start and cut.

The end you annotated is simple—just stop the cut.

Call me anal—I didn’t want to see a seam on the end.


My next issue is how to successfully put it all together.
The faces of the opening aren’t square—they’re narrower on the back.
I mught not be able to assemble the faux beam completely before installing it.
I may have to glue the rear and bottom, put it in place, then glue the front on while it’s in place.

Please don’t quote the trolls.
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(09-19-2022, 04:44 PM)Rob Young Wrote: What about just going ahead and making the bevel all the way along and then gluing back on a piece to restore the "squareness" of the end(s)?
My thoughts exactly.

Seems to me a no brainer if painted, even if not, the outer seam would be a point and won't be noticeable.

Seems to me like you've complicated it?

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