09-16-2022, 10:42 AM
After watching the rainwater overflowing the gutter and getting flooding in the basement I had to do something. As I am not a gutter installer and a couple hundred dollars to replace the longer gutter section downspouts and inserts are cheaper then several thousand dollars to get someone to replace the gutters. I am also removing the mesh metal inserts placed into the gutters to return the water flow as before. This was down without removing the gutters from the house. You only need a helper at the end to hold the new downspout in place while screwing into the metal straps.
Sorry no pictures.
Original 5" K-Style gutters with 1 3/8 circle inserts and 2"X3" downspouts.
Due to HOA, having to paint the new (Dark Brown) downspouts from Lowes to match the trim.
Got (5) 10' straight sections of 3"X4"
(6) type A elbows 3"X4" (Bends toward longside)
(4) 4"X3" inserts (has 4 small holes on the lip to secure with metal screws to gutter)
(1) Tube of silicon gutter sealant
(100) #8 by 1/2" metal screw
(4) 4"X3" by 4" downspout to drain connector (Got from Lowes.com and shipped)
Reusing the metal straps from the old gutter. Re-bent into a C shape to screw to house and into downspout. It was already painted to match the trim.
Replacing (4) downspouts with 4"X3" insert and 3"X4" downspouts. Using type-A elbows.
1) 8 ft section for back of garage on wood (done - took 2 days)
2) 8 ft section for front of garage on brick
3) 20 ft section on side of house (working on next)
4) 20 ft section on other side of house
Made a cardboard template of the insert. The top 3" of the insert matches the inside of the gutter with the 4" going longways. Measure several times and use a drill bit for the corners and a dremel for the straight edge cuts.
Noticed the hacksaw cuts cleaner than grinder.
Used metal crimpers that were bought 10 years ago for the first time on this project. The bottom of whatever gets crimped going into the top of the next piece going all the way to the bottom so water doesn't leak.
After doing the first one at the beginning of a 3-day weekend with no rain, came up with a better approach.
1) Use ladder to make a build the replacement downspout connections (match new to old)
2) paint new downspout to match trim and let dry
3) wait for a no-rain day and remove old downspout
4) Mark underside old gutter for new installation
5) Use template from inside top of gutter and drill corners
6) Mark with template from below and cut the rest with dremel (First attempt was only from below and had to remove more metal from the front and make hole slightly larger to get the insert lip to fit the gutter from the top as it fits with no wiggle room)
7) Install new insert with silicon sealant, then 4 screws, then more sealant over the top
8) Screw in metal bracing on long sections into house
9) Get helper to hold new downspout in position
10) Screw into sides of metal bracing and downspout to lock into position
11) get new 3"X4" by 4" downspout to drain connector screwed to downspout
Sorry no pictures.
Original 5" K-Style gutters with 1 3/8 circle inserts and 2"X3" downspouts.
Due to HOA, having to paint the new (Dark Brown) downspouts from Lowes to match the trim.
Got (5) 10' straight sections of 3"X4"
(6) type A elbows 3"X4" (Bends toward longside)
(4) 4"X3" inserts (has 4 small holes on the lip to secure with metal screws to gutter)
(1) Tube of silicon gutter sealant
(100) #8 by 1/2" metal screw
(4) 4"X3" by 4" downspout to drain connector (Got from Lowes.com and shipped)
Reusing the metal straps from the old gutter. Re-bent into a C shape to screw to house and into downspout. It was already painted to match the trim.
Replacing (4) downspouts with 4"X3" insert and 3"X4" downspouts. Using type-A elbows.
1) 8 ft section for back of garage on wood (done - took 2 days)
2) 8 ft section for front of garage on brick
3) 20 ft section on side of house (working on next)
4) 20 ft section on other side of house
Made a cardboard template of the insert. The top 3" of the insert matches the inside of the gutter with the 4" going longways. Measure several times and use a drill bit for the corners and a dremel for the straight edge cuts.
Noticed the hacksaw cuts cleaner than grinder.
Used metal crimpers that were bought 10 years ago for the first time on this project. The bottom of whatever gets crimped going into the top of the next piece going all the way to the bottom so water doesn't leak.
After doing the first one at the beginning of a 3-day weekend with no rain, came up with a better approach.
1) Use ladder to make a build the replacement downspout connections (match new to old)
2) paint new downspout to match trim and let dry
3) wait for a no-rain day and remove old downspout
4) Mark underside old gutter for new installation
5) Use template from inside top of gutter and drill corners
6) Mark with template from below and cut the rest with dremel (First attempt was only from below and had to remove more metal from the front and make hole slightly larger to get the insert lip to fit the gutter from the top as it fits with no wiggle room)
7) Install new insert with silicon sealant, then 4 screws, then more sealant over the top
8) Screw in metal bracing on long sections into house
9) Get helper to hold new downspout in position
10) Screw into sides of metal bracing and downspout to lock into position
11) get new 3"X4" by 4" downspout to drain connector screwed to downspout
WoodTinker