Posts: 70
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2021
I've never used Rubio or any hard wax finish before but from examples I've seen I'm going to use Rubio on a white oak dinning table. I've seen lots of instructions & videos of applying Rubio without colors. After sampling many minwax colors we ended up liking something close to Watco medium walnut. Basically looking for advice from anyone who's used Rubio colors or a source that would show me what I'm getting into before I spend the money or end up with major finish problem. Maybe Osmo or a different brand would be a better choice when adding a color to the finish.
Thanks
Posts: 12,876
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(11-05-2022, 09:36 AM)2link2 Wrote: I've never used Rubio or any hard wax finish before but from examples I've seen I'm going to use Rubio on a white oak dinning table. I've seen lots of instructions & videos of applying Rubio without colors. After sampling many minwax colors we ended up liking something close to Watco medium walnut. Basically looking for advice from anyone who's used Rubio colors or a source that would show me what I'm getting into before I spend the money or end up with major finish problem. Maybe Osmo or a different brand would be a better choice when adding a color to the finish.
Thanks
Osmo has lots of stock colors, but it's not nearly as durable as Rubio Monocoat. RM stands up to most anything. Just water damages Osmo.
Rubio Monocoat has several Precolors that you can use before applying the Oil Plus 2C hardwax finish. If one of them is the color you are looking for you are golden. If not, you could dye the wood with a water based dye to get the color you want and then use the Oil Plus 2C. Getting the color you want is a trial and error process, no different than with any other product.
Both RM and Osmo are stupid simple to use.
John
Posts: 5,845
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2003
I don’t have anything to add in terms of using RM but it’s on my list to tryout this winter.
John, if choosing to create a base color using analine dye, do you have to use water for your base? Could a DNA or LT solution with say Transtint dye work with RM?
To OP; hope you don’t mind the add on question.
Posts: 12,876
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(11-05-2022, 11:57 AM)Kansas City Fireslayer Wrote: I don’t have anything to add in terms of using RM but it’s on my list to tryout this winter.
John, if choosing to create a base color using analine dye, do you have to use water for your base? Could a DNA or LT solution with say Transtint dye work with RM?
To OP; hope you don’t mind the add on question.
I think as long as the dye is not oil based it will be fine. So Transtint should work OK.
John
Posts: 70
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2021
John, thanks for the info. I went back to Ruboos website now knowing it's more durable that's what I need
I see they have Oil Plus 2C colors & Pre color. The pre color has 12 colors none of them really what were looking for, the Oil Plus 2C comes in 55 colors & there's a few that look like they will work. Are they 2 different finishes or just 2 different products that will have the finish ? I didn't any explanation on there site regarding the differences between the end product.
Fireslayer no problem ! & good question I may end up with transtint if I can't get right Rubio color
Posts: 12,876
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(11-05-2022, 03:09 PM)2link2 Wrote: John, thanks for the info. I went back to Ruboos website now knowing it's more durable that's what I need
I see they have Oil Plus 2C colors & Pre color. The pre color has 12 colors none of them really what were looking for, the Oil Plus 2C comes in 55 colors & there's a few that look like they will work. Are they 2 different finishes or just 2 different products that will have the finish ? I didn't any explanation on there site regarding the differences between the end product.
Fireslayer no problem ! & good question I may end up with transtint if I can't get right Rubio color
Not sure I understand your question. Oil Plus 2C is the finish, available in lots of colors. You apply one coat, although many folks use 2 coats. Precolor is a waterbased stain, not a finish.
Since you only apply one (or two) coats of Oil Plus 2C you get what you get as far as color. You can't keep adding coats because it won't stick. The Precolor allows you to add additional color first. The same would be true if you dye it with Transtint before applying the Oil Plus 2C. These options allow you to get deeper colors, other colors, etc. that cannot be obtained with Oil Plus 2C alone.
John
Posts: 70
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2021
OK, there are 2 different products for colors on there website one is precolor https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/pages/p...asy-colors
The other product is Oil Plus 2C color, https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/pages/o...-2c-colors
I was wondering what's the difference between those 2 (other than the precolor being a stain/dye needing a finish coat) I hope I'm making sense.
I'm of coarse going to have to order some samples so I'll get it figured out. My thought is using precolor or transtint than Oil Plus 2C as finish coat would be better way to go.
Thanks
Posts: 769
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
11-08-2022, 02:28 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-08-2022, 02:28 PM by Cabinet Monkey.)
(11-05-2022, 11:36 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Osmo has lots of stock colors, but it's not nearly as durable as Rubio Monocoat. RM stands up to most anything. Just water damages Osmo.
This simply is not correct
I have two countertops of 1/4 sawn sapele in laundry/utility rooms , both with undermount sinks. One finished with rubio, the other osmo.
Both are holding up just fine. The rubio looks better , but it gets used the least and is not subject to daily abuse by kids, teens, and housekeepers spilling paint, clay, cleaners and solvents of all varieties on it. Despite its dirty look, the top still sheds water and I'm pretty sure a good scrub with a scotch brite will bring it back to like new. Even if it doesn't, I am certain a light sanding and another light coat of osmo will. But the real takeaway is that the water protection is there. If you want a new looking top all the time - WOOD IS NOT YOUR ANSWER
Posts: 12,876
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(11-08-2022, 02:28 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: This simply is not correct
I have two countertops of 1/4 sawn sapele in laundry/utility rooms , both with undermount sinks. One finished with rubio, the other osmo.
Both are holding up just fine. The rubio looks better , but it gets used the least and is not subject to daily abuse by kids, teens, and housekeepers spilling paint, clay, cleaners and solvents of all varieties on it. Despite its dirty look, the top still sheds water and I'm pretty sure a good scrub with a scotch brite will bring it back to like new. Even if it doesn't, I am certain a light sanding and another light coat of osmo will. But the real takeaway is that the water protection is there. If you want a new looking top all the time - WOOD IS NOT YOUR ANSWER
I call them like I see them. In my testing of Osmo on walnut water left a ring, as if it removed the finish. I'm happy you are getting better results. Maybe it's the wood.
John
Posts: 769
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: ATL
(11-08-2022, 05:04 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I call them like I see them. In my testing of Osmo on walnut water left a ring, as if it removed the finish. I'm happy you are getting better results. Maybe it's the wood.
John
Perhaps it is.
The only real difference I can tell is the catalyst Rubio employs to make it cure faster.
|
