Locktite PL Clamp Time
#11
I'm using Locktite PL to adhere retread covers to oak stair treads. I've clamped the back side and put sandbags on the rest to keep in place. The tread fits very tightly as well (on purpose). The tube says 24 hour cure time. Do I need to keep it clamped and stay off of it until then?
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#12
   

   
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#13
Quote:The tube says 24 hour cure time. Do I need to keep it clamped and stay off of it until then?


If you don't want to risk breaking the bond or having the tread move.



n.b.   why would you think the manuf. instructions would not be accurate ?     There are fast setting/curing adhesives for time sensitive repairs.  be prepared to pay up though.
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#14
"why would you think the manuf. instructions would not be accurate?"

I wasn't doubting the instructions because the instructions only say "cure time: 24 hours". A lot of other adhesives have times for dry time, light use time, and full cure time.

I don't use construction adhesives often, so when internet searches came up short, I thought I'd ask here.
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#15
nice!  actually just did the same thing a few weeks ago.  i tacked 'em down so i didn't have to wait.  found a woodfiller that actually matched d@mn-near perfect, so you have to know where it's nailed to see 'em.  
Yes
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#16
Just curious (because my flooring project is stalled at the stairs). What's your flooring material at the top/bottom of the stairs? Hardwood or something else? Is the top tread being capped, and if so, how are you transitioning to the flooring up there?
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#17
(11-06-2022, 12:26 PM)lincmercguy Wrote: "why would you think the manuf. instructions would not be accurate?"

I wasn't doubting the instructions because the instructions only say "cure time: 24 hours". A lot of other adhesives have times for dry time, light use time, and full cure time.

I don't use construction adhesives often, so when internet searches came up short, I thought I'd ask here.

Omissions in TDS's or instruction manuals / directions are just as telling and valuable as what is written in them.
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#18
"nice! actually just did the same thing a few weeks ago. i tacked 'em down so i didn't have to wait. found a woodfiller that actually matched d@mn-near perfect, so you have to know where it's nailed to see 'em."

I thought about it. If my riser covers were thick enough to cover nails in the back, I might have. But I didn't want to lose any more tread depth than necessary.
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#19
"Just curious (because my flooring project is stalled at the stairs). What's your flooring material at the top/bottom of the stairs? Hardwood or something else? Is the top tread being capped, and if so, how are you transitioning to the flooring up there?"

I actually have a landing halfway for the front door, so I have two transitions to deal with. At the top is my new laminate flooring. I have the laminate style bull nose to make this transition. I might have to do some additional work there to make it look right.

The landing is tile. I'm going to tear that tile out and place new tile. I have some oak bull nose I can use there, but I haven't torn out the tile yet, so it's not in place.

The basement at the bottom of the stairs is tile, but we're not planning on replacing that unless we stay for the long term.

Honestly, I'll probably get the railing done before dealing with these transitions. The remains of the railing aren't the most stable.

The floor surfaces are why I'm installing tread covers instead of just refinishing what's there. The current heights are not right for the flooring.
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#20
My treads and risers were particle board. The treads were set in dados in the side stringers. No center stringer. I replaced the treads with oak but left the particle board risers.
Looks like oak treads? You can cut 1/4" oak ply to fit your risers. Finish to match and use contact cement to affix them to the risers. What I did was cut a 1/4" dado on the bottom of the treads at the nosing and left a gap at the back of the treads. Slid my riser coves into the slots. I made a template so my cuts would be right. I used the same template for laying out the risers too. It's adjustable on both ends
The template
[Image: dx8YpO1.jpg]
Oak ply riser covers
[Image: L8BiU3U.jpg]
Neil Summers Home Inspections




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