finishing a kitchen full of drawers?
#20
(12-20-2022, 08:05 PM)jteneyck Wrote: I don't think RM is expensive compared to 2 or 3 coats of Enduro Clear Poly.  It's called Monocoat for a reason, and if you only use a single coat the price per ft^2 is not out of line with traditional finishes.  

That said, I have not actually used it inside of a cabinet.  I would have no concern in applying it to a glued up drawer; no different than doing an assembled cabinet.  If your question was more related to odor, I think that's a valid concern.  

John

Good points, especially about the one and done application!
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#21
Quote:Have you used Rubio on the insides of already finished drawer boxes before? (edit: though that stuff stinks, not sure I'd want it inside the kitchen drawer boxes 


Haven't used RM in drawers , but even so -  its distinct smell is gone after the catalyst makes it cure.  Which is measured in hours. 

We can debate what stinks and what doesn't , but I find RM's smell easier to deal with than most oil based polys, and for sure varnishes.   

YMMV
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#22
When my son wanted to reface his cabinets, I sent him to Cabinet Doors, where he bought the Maple doors and drawer fronts.

He finished then in Waterlox, and the came out great looking.


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#23
(12-20-2022, 07:53 AM)mound Wrote: As part of my long running Kitchen Build Thread  (check it out if interested) I've got about 25 solid maple drawers (well, solid sides, maple ply bottoms) and I'm looking for simple and cost effective finishing suggestions for the boxes.  Thanks!

i used to spray with a waterborne acrylic clear, specifically Sayerlack... but lately i use Odie's oil instead.  i much prefer the look and feel of the odie's to the plastic coating, and have had zero complaints.
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#24
(12-26-2022, 08:36 PM)zaret Wrote: i used to spray with a waterborne acrylic clear, specifically Sayerlack... but lately i use Odie's oil instead.  i much prefer the look and feel of the odie's to the plastic coating, and have had zero complaints.

Isn’t that a lot more work , and by extension - cost ?
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#25
Curious what OP decided to use.  I am also considering using Rubio Monocoat (Pure) to finish my kitchen cabinet drawer boxes (hard maple).  I originally was going to spray the finish using Enduro-Var II but I really wanted to try out RM and this seems like the perfect application for it (I'd rather wipe on than spray, especially since I already installed the bottoms of the drawer boxes and don't want to deal with overspray issues you encounter, as a result).

I'm probably a week or two out from putting the finish on the boxes so let me know OP if you get around to trying this first!
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#26
For the RM I'd suggest finishing a board, let it sit for a day or two (or however long it says it takes to cure), then throw it in a sealed box or bag and wait a day or two. Should be able to open after that and see if offgassing is an issue.

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#27
(01-05-2023, 07:32 PM)greatscott Wrote: Curious what OP decided to use.  I am also considering using Rubio Monocoat (Pure) to finish my kitchen cabinet drawer boxes (hard maple).  I originally was going to spray the finish using Enduro-Var II but I really wanted to try out RM and this seems like the perfect application for it (I'd rather wipe on than spray, especially since I already installed the bottoms of the drawer boxes and don't want to deal with overspray issues you encounter, as a result).

I'm probably a week or two out from putting the finish on the boxes so let me know OP if you get around to trying this first!

I ended up using water based poly for the hard maple boxes themselves.. couple coats brushed on, buffed and waxed, look and feel great, and don't smell at all. 

I did the oak fronts with rubio monocoat.. That stuff is a joy to use. Smelly (not in a gross way, but distinct) but it is fading.
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#28
I use Caboot's wb poly on anything kitchen or bath anymore. No noticeable smell while spraying, dries to handle in 30 if your shop temp is around 65-70
Water cleanup on the gun.

Drawers, I assembled and left the bottom out. Spray sand spray all parts, slide in the bottom then square and staple the bottom back. You don't have finish blowing back in your face that way, and better coverage on the inside of the drawer.
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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