New Workbench Slab Top

[msweig]

As everyone noted the glue up would be really tricky. I tried something similar when I built my bench. I had 1*12 finger jointed pine, and tried gluing some of those (I think three) on top of each other for the two planks (I had a tool well down the middle of the bench). It didn't work out well. Granted, I was a beginner, had no workbench to build it on, and no easy way to make cauls. Using cauls would help. As would the screw idea. And definitely agree with using epoxy.

[Tapper]

Update:

Sent an e-mail inquiry to Mr. Adam Horne at Perfect Plank Company and received a quick reply yesterday. They do have some leftover Maple that is 2 7/8" thick and long enough for my needs to make up a bench top. The carriers they use for transportation give them a significant break if the slabs are 93" long or less, so his quote was for a slab 92"L x 25"W x 2 7/8" thick.

Top = $556
Shipping $300

Total $856

Quite a bit more that I had hoped. Mr. Horne could not have been more pleasant to deal with (also spoke with him on the phone) and his quote was prompt and concise. We're on a vacation trip right now and I'll check on maple lumber prices at my local supplier when we get back home.

Doug

[Bill Holt]

Building a workbench is a lot of work!!!  But, for me, it was amazingly rewarding.  I had only sawhorses for work surface, no real plan, just a burning desire.  I've never been a tight-wad, but for $856, you can build a nice bench with the best vices, have money in your pocket, and best of all, have an amazing experience.
I have mixed emotions about the slabs: on one hand I would save them; on the other, rip'em and save the cash.

[jteneyck]

Update:

Sent an e-mail inquiry to Mr. Adam Horne at Perfect Plank Company and received a quick reply yesterday. They do have some leftover Maple that is 2 7/8" thick and long enough for my needs to make up a bench top. The carriers they use for transportation give them a significant break if the slabs are 93" long or less, so his quote was for a slab 92"L x 25"W x 2 7/8" thick.

Top = $556
Shipping $300

Total $856

Quite a bit more that I had hoped. Mr. Horne could not have been more pleasant to deal with (also spoke with him on the phone) and his quote was prompt and concise. We're on a vacation trip right now and I'll check on maple lumber prices at my local supplier when we get back home.

Doug

I'd be cutting up the slabs you already have or buying new lumber to make your own.  There is about 50 BF of lumber in the top you want.  The quoted price of the top actually isn't bad, but when you add the shipping it's pretty steep - works out to over $17/bf.  I can buy hard maple here for about $5.50/bf.  That's $275 total, less than the shipping. If you get the lumber at least skip planed, or better still, S3S, the hard work is done.  Even I would pay for that.    

John

[rwe2156]

You have several options:

1. Clamps and cauls. Yes you can do it! 2x6 softwood cauls. Use spacers in the middle to increase pressure. You need serious clamps do to this.

2. Screws. a 6x6 pattern of screws working from the middle out.

3. Rip the slabs in two lengthwise to 12".

If it were me, I would probably use screws. I've done it many times for multi layered plywood, don't see why it wouldn't work. If you are drilling dog holes you can do that prior to glue up you can use bolts and washers. Options if you don't have a lot of clamps.

Now matter which way you go, the mating surfaces of the slabs need to be flattened before glue up.

Maple will be a better top. I would face laminate 4/4 boards rather than use slabs. That said, by the time you buy the lumber and put the time in, the $800 might not be a bad deal.

[Tapper]

I'd be cutting up the slabs you already have or buying new lumber to make your own.  There is about 50 BF of lumber in the top you want.  The quoted price of the top actually isn't bad, but when you add the shipping it's pretty steep - works out to over $17/bf.  I can buy hard maple here for about $5.50/bf.  That's $275 total, less than the shipping. If you get the lumber at least skip planed, or better still, S3S, the hard work is done.  Even I would pay for that.    

John

Hi John,

Just spoke with my lumber supplier and he has both hard and soft maple 8/4 stock, skip planed (would finish out at ~1 3/4 thickness according to him). I can get soft maple here for about what you are paying for hard maple. Ten foot is about as short as he has in stock. I plan to make my bench around 6' long and ~3" thick. I'll swing by and see him when I get home and see what I can work out on the lengths; always good to put eyes on the actual product.

He also has Ash for a little less than soft maple. From what I understand, there are two schools of thought on hard and soft maple - some prefer one, some the other. Would appreciate any opinions.

Doug

[jteneyck]

Hi John,

Just spoke with my lumber supplier and he has both hard and soft maple 8/4 stock, skip planed (would finish out at ~1 3/4 thickness according to him). I can get soft maple here for about what you are paying for hard maple. Ten foot is about as short as he has in stock. I plan to make my bench around 6' long and ~3" thick. I'll swing by and see him when I get home and see what I can work out on the lengths; always good to put eyes on the actual product.

He also has Ash for a little less than soft maple. From what I understand, there are two schools of thought on hard and soft maple - some prefer one, some the other. Would appreciate any opinions.

Doug

Doug, soft maple is as good as hard maple in my opinion for a bench top.  Both are plenty hard.  Hard maple is usually whiter in color which some folks prefer.  I would not hesitate to use soft maple.  Tablesawtom is an advocate of ash.  My opinion is ash is a great wood.  It's softer than either maple.  It has great shock absorption, too.  I think those properties are primary in why TST likes ash.  It's a pleasure to work with and if you can get plain sawn, such that the glued-up top is quarter sawn, I think it would be fine.  It'll ding up faster than maple, and stain more easily, but I don't see those as major issues.  I guess the question is, what's a little less than soft maple mean?  $0.50?  I'd go with maple.  $2?  I'm liking ash.  But in the end, it's your bench and what you prefer is more important.  You'll forget about the cost if you love it.  You'll never forget the price if you don't.  Sort of like most things.  

As far as length of the stock goes, yeah, it's nice to have full length boards, but it's certainly not a requirement to make a fully functional benchtop.  Shorter lengths butt joined with overlapping seams is more than strong enough.  Lots of people sell countertops built that way.  

John

[Tapper]

John,

I thought about the short pieces. Was thinking I might be able to use them on the bottom of some of the full length pieces to make a full three inches in thickness. Also might able to save a little doing it that way. Thinking about soft maple. Want to take a look at all of them when I get home.

Doug

[TangoTwo]

If 10'' is the shortest he has just buy 12' and cut them in half for you 6' bench material.

[Tapper]

If 10'' is the shortest he has just buy 12' and cut them in half for you 6' bench material.

Thanks, I'll have a little better idea of the material sizes once I get a chance to look at what he has in stock; will be a week or so.

Doug