Source for 9/32" Masonry Bit?
#15
(02-17-2023, 09:31 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: bmich

Most of those are bad links

That must be due to the copy/paste, because of the quoting system. If you use the links bmich put into his own response, they do work. I'll try to edit my quote.
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#16
(02-17-2023, 10:00 AM)grwold Wrote: That must be due to the copy/paste, because of the quoting system.  If you use the links bmich put into his own response, they do work.  I'll try to edit my quote.

Search Amazon for 9/32" masonry bit,  they have 4 and 6"   Roly
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#17
Get some #10 nails. Drill 3/16 holes. hammer the nails in. they will never pull out. just make sure you drill into either the mortar or the solid webbing in the block. don't drill into the hollow areas.

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#18
People have been anchoring stuff to stone and concrete for a very long time. Typically dry hardwood was whittled down and pounded in a hole created with a star drill then a hand forged iron nail or screw would be used. Many times I've seen cut nails with copper wire used to attach shoes or furring to concrete. Personally, I use ceramic coated deck screws and zip ties. It doesn't matter if I drill solid concrete, mortar, or CMU (block) into an empty core, the install is the same; drill a tight clearance hole, push zip tie in (at least as deep as the screw), run the screw home, cut off excess (used for next hole). If a little plastic showing is unappropriate; then just start the screw, cut the tie flush, tap the screw in 1/4"-3/8" (which will pull the tie in deeper) then run the screw home. I say "run the screw home" because you shouldn't be timid with the screw gun. The heat created increases the holding power.

As for a 9/32" masonry bit, they're not as common as 1/4" or 5/16". However; when you do find one, after a few dozen holes it will be drilling 1/4". 
Upset
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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