Honing Guide
#24
(04-16-2023, 09:24 AM)Jack01 Wrote: Just came across this Honing Guide from Bridge City Tool works

https://bridgecitytools.com/products/hg-...gayeMEb274

Interesting concept,   I am sure this is Chinese made.

Interesting indeed.  Same price as the LN guide, but seems to be more versatile.  Bridge City seems to over-engineer things, but their stuff works and their designs are elegant.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#25
(04-21-2023, 12:10 PM)AHill Wrote: Interesting indeed.  Same price as the LN guide, but seems to be more versatile.  Bridge City seems to over-engineer things, but their stuff works and their designs are elegant.

There are two things I don't like about the design of Bridge City HG-4.  (I have never seen one in person.)

First is that it determines square using one side of the blade.  Older plane irons are often trapezoids without the sides parallel.  If you use just one side to square, then the edge will be square to one side and massively out of square to the other side.  I prefer to split the difference, which the Eclipse clones, Lie-Nielsen, and Kell all do.

Second is that it clamps using a screw from the top.  The original Veritas guide had this design.  When you exert twisting pressure like that, it's very easy for the blade to twist.  Maybe they have some way to alleviate that, but that would concern me.

Mark
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#26
(04-17-2023, 07:44 PM)adamcherubini Wrote: I know you didn't ask, but there are many benefits to ditching the honing guides.

Honing guides make more sense for slow cutting media. They make more sense for wider blades that take longer to hone. I also get why people like them for narrow chisels.

FWIW: I don't really think wide blades should generally have straight edges.  Only exception are what I call "fitting planes" rabbets, dadoes, jointers.  Jointers are really the exception due to their wide blades. Rabbets and dadoes are usually the size of chisels.

Blades that are curved (radiuses) have advantages for stock prep and smoothing, but I think blades with rounded bevels (in x-section) are also advantageous, as you can roll on that bevel to find the perfect cut when pairing (like carving tools are). Honing guides really make flat bevels.

I recall talking to Rob Lee's dad about this a long time ago.

1) I wondered if his micro bevel was an attempt to help woodworkers achieve the strength of a rounded bevel. He was well aware of rounded bevels and I think he felt they were superior (its a little more support close to the edge)
2) Regarding jigs in general, he thought honing guides were enablers. I feel like he would know. I feel like they have been detrimental. I also think edge tools absolutely do not need flat backs to be sharp or sharpenable. I feel like we've done ourselves no favors with so much emphasis on flat backed tools.

Regarding honing guides, I sharpen freehand on DMT stones then finish with stropping. But, when someone new is just starting to sharpen I recommend using a guide of some kind. The reason is, it will build muscle memory for the angles needed. After a while using a guide the hands naturally assume the correct position, within a couple degrees. Which is as close as I think is needed. 
Carry On!
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