What's a good book on dining tables?
#8
More specifically, this table will go in a bay window dining area where the window seats have already been constructed, so it will probably be a little oddly shaped and more casual that a formal dining room table.  I've built three tables before. One was a large four legged dining table and two were smaller trestle tables, but I don't consider myself an expert. I'm doing this for a neighbor and if there is a good comprehensive book out there that covers both design and construction I'm sure I could benefit from it.  Papa Jim
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#9
Not a book, but have a look here?:

https://www.newyankee.com/projects/?category=tables

See if anything suits your needs.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#10
Taunton's has put out several books  that are basically reprints of articles. They do touch on design standards.

Google-search table terms and you will get the basic essence of the design standards. Forever be hounded by furniture ads.

As a designer I gave my people freedom from sardine dimensions, so, 36" backup space from table edge; 30" place setting width (I think standards say 24" is minimum ... Ha!); a chair: 18" x 18", which makes table-leg spacing a challenge . . . so pee off relatives with 24" setting width and give cousin Jenny the party job next year. Double seating is 42" table depth. See, above, to shrink to 36", and share water glasses.

There's more hbm standards but I haven't designed houses for awhile. Plus, the developer/real-estate people girdle and waist-cinch these dimensions to those of the last architect they coerced. Most of them have a copy of Wiley.

Ps. I have never seen my favorite, strongest, best leg-table join bracket in published plans. It works (in rock maple) and is pretty simple. Numerous breakdowns from 1957 through the 2010s never impacted the joint's durability. The two adjoining rails abutt the leg. A rail height bracket locks into the rails with finger joints. A bolt (or, two?) are cinched into the back corner of the leg. I don't have the balls to send screws through the rails and brackets into the 3/4" table top. Because I am strictly hands on.
Heirlooms are self-important fiction so build what you like. Someone may find it useful.
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#11
Get yourself a large piece of cardboard or tape together some craft paper. Cut to fit the size of the table top. Look at the available spacing for chairs.
When you fill in all those blanks it will give you an idea of what style legs will work.
Roger


Life isn't like a box of chocolates. It's more like a jar of Jalapenos. What you do today, might burn your rear tomorrow.

9-11 Never forget
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#12
(07-23-2023, 11:18 AM)firefighter Wrote: Get yourself a large piece of cardboard or tape together some craft paper. Cut to fit the size of the table top. Look at the available spacing for chairs.
When you fill in all those blanks it will give you an idea of what style legs will work.

This. There are some basic considerations for table designs, like the height, leg clearance and stability. Then you go to the general construction methods that apply to any woodworking. (seasonal movement and joinery stuff). But if it's a custom size, to fit in a specific space, a cardboard mock-up might be a good start. Fitting into the space in a visually appealing way is probably more important than following some specific design.
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#13
For dimensions of things like table height, etc., an excellent book is Illustrated Cabinetmaking. They have drawings of hundreds of different types of furniture, including tables. It's a handy reference for just about anything you'd want to build.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#14
(07-24-2023, 04:03 PM)AHill Wrote: For dimensions of things like table height, etc., an excellent book is Illustrated Cabinetmaking.  They have drawings of hundreds of different types of furniture, including tables.  It's a handy reference for just about anything you'd want to build.

Just ordered it. Thanks!
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