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Roof over the deck is built on 6x6 posts and faces the street. I'd like to have a light on each post. Is there a reason why I shouldn't drill a 5/8" hole through the post(s) and rout out 5/8" for a low profile electrical box? I put up some solar light fixtures that aren't in this pic, but they look cheesy and aren't worth anything for light.
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Depending on what light you choose, recessing the shallow 3-1/2" or 4" pan box may not be necessary. Drill for the romex connector, and fill the hole with silicone caulk just before you mount the box to prevent water damage to the post.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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(02-13-2024, 11:57 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Depending on what light you choose, recessing the shallow 3-1/2" or 4" pan box may not be necessary. Drill for the romex connector, and fill the hole with silicone caulk just before you mount the box to prevent water damage to the post.
Thanks.
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what's wrong with a surface mount box? then all you are doing is drilling a hole through the post.
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(02-14-2024, 09:41 AM)crokett™ Wrote: what's wrong with a surface mount box? then all you are doing is drilling a hole through the post.
Never occurred to me that the fixture would probably cover the shallow pan/box. Doh! [head slap]
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Code says use a weatherproof junction box outdoors. Unless you are going low voltage. You could do 12v pendant lighting hung from the rafters or sconce lighting on the columns. With low voltage, you could just make a wood channel and cover the wires. There's a lot of low voltage, outdoor lighting options. Want more light, just add more lights.
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(02-14-2024, 12:07 PM)KC Wrote: Never occurred to me that the fixture would probably cover the shallow pan/box. Doh! [head slap]
I know I said it might not have to be recessed, but according to code, if it's surface mounted it has to be a weather tight box. I use shallow pans whenever possible for exterior lights so the sheathing doesn't need to have a big hole for water to enter and rot out the sheathing, shoe, floor, and ribbon joist. (Yes, all of them, in that order, given enough time.) The pan is mounted to ice/water shield that extends well above the fixture and the bottom is usually stuck on top of the siding below to direct any water back to the exposed surface. In this case I could call the pan "recessed" because it is recessed into the light block.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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(02-16-2024, 04:31 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: I know I said it might not have to be recessed, but according to code, if it's surface mounted it has to be a weather tight box. I use shallow pans whenever possible for exterior lights so the sheathing doesn't need to have a big hole for water to enter and rot out the sheathing, shoe, floor, and ribbon joist. (Yes, all of them, in that order, given enough time.) The pan is mounted to ice/water shield that extends well above the fixture and the bottom is usually stuck on top of the siding below to direct any water back to the exposed surface. In this case I could call the pan "recessed" because it is recessed into the light block.
Thanks for the replies.
