Bedrock 608
Yes, I have a few
Stanley working just fine, for what it was designed to do..
It can also flatten a board's surface quite well...
That be 2 cabinet sides, that needed jointed to match each other...Plane is a Stanley No. 8c...Cabinet was a 5 drawer chest of drawers I was building, out of Ash..

My question to the OP was NOT an attack..merely asking WHY a plane that is over 80 yrs old would even need to have it's sole ground.....BTW: they stopped making Bedrocks during WW2, and never re-started them.
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that

Different strokes for different folks. Some people like their tools nice and shiny is a reason to grind if nothing else. Some people like their soles/ sides to be higher tolerance to square than came from the factory. Does anybody need to do any of this? Probably not, but it's pretty cool and interesting.
If I were to purchase a #8 from Lie Nielson, or a Veritas from Lee Valley  I would read, great choice and you are going to love it. The response would  probably be about the same for a Wood River from Wood Craft. Christopher Schwarz even stated in his DVD , Coarse Medium and fine, that the the jointer planes is where you should spend your money. Lie Nielsen uses a surface grinder to produce a plane and it is a great buy at $550, but if I strip and repaint it and use a surface grinder to make a $10 Bedrock really flat and really look nice, it is something that must be down graded. You have no idea how fortunate I feel to have excess and be able to use of a grinder that will do 24 inches.

I  was attracted to my wife  because she was very good looking. Then I found out she was really beautiful on the inside and I still think so 55 years latter. I also like nice looking tools. Nicely finished tools like the ones above operate smoother than the older Stanley's. I have reground lots of Stanley's and some Bedrocks and I have found that bedrock are for the most part flatter than Stanley's. Does it need resurfacing? Probably not. The most important thing to make a plane work properly is to make it sharp. And obviously , from his pictures Bandit571 can sharpen a plane. Why do I take it as attack is because there is a recurring thing theme that he seems to find everything I write is wrong and from his response you can see that anything I do is wrong. If you do not agree with something written, is it necessary to say anything? One can always start there own post it. It is always thus. Is responses like this  necessary on this forum? In the old days this page would be page 2 before the day was through Today the oldest post on this page is 10- 22- 23. Responses like this stop people from posting. Why bother.

I have always stated that one can not flatten a metal hand plane by hand, yet everyone thinks they can. If it takes me about 3 hours to resurface a #4 on a surface grinder that is designed to remove metal, what makes some one think they can do it with sand paper on a piece of glass. And every plane purchased from a flea marked needs to be flattered, which Bandit571 has proved wrong.

I though I would post the process just to add something to a forum that doesn't get much traffic today, Check Dates. It will take me 5-7 hours of work on a surface grinded to complete the work and I am willing to do it because I thinks that the return is worth it. 

Post away!   I am a wee bit GRUMPY at the moment,   Wife of 51 years was just moved over to OSU Rhodes Hall, after being in the OSU ER since Wednesday Night...will (maybe) have an MRI done Monday?    Has a LOT of issues right now that they are trying to get fixed....

Even with my daughter driving( lead foot itis?) it takes almost an hour to drive from my house to the hospital area....another to drive back home...and, they raely call here with any up-dates....WE have to call them.  

Have had almost as much time sharpening planes and chisels, as the OP has as a soon learns what works, and what doesn't...

If some out there thinks grinding a sole will help the plane....go for it!
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
A plane sole is a casting, they will warp. Imo, its a good idea. Depending on where the warp is, it may affect it, or not.

You might want to ask these guys....if their planes warped...

I'm sure they will tell you...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
I asked them and they said yes.

What is it with you? I counted 10 threads on the first page of this board with you being the author. Is that not enough for you?

What in the hell is your point about Tom sharing his grinding technique? I for one think it's pretty interesting and we all might learn something new.

Careful there...I can just as easily LEAVE this site....

Just saying, not everyone can grind their planes, due to a lack of machines to do the work.   

Plus, without those 10 entries, just what will there be here? 
Stanley No. 8c and No.7c....

YMMV, Of course...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
(02-24-2024, 05:17 PM)tablesawtom Wrote: I bought a Bedrock 608 flat side at an Auction recently and so far I have disassembled it and stripped the body. The frog is next to be stripped and I have a really nice tote to replace the one on the plane.

and stripped

I plan on resurfacing it, so if you haven't seen the process before keep an eye on the post.


I'm looking forward to seeing the process... I've always wanted to dabble in the machinist trades, just never had the resources for it - these kinds of posts always interest me still, however.  Please continue to update your progress here.

Not really related to this post, though it's what drew me here to read this - my No. 8 jointer has developed a small crack at one corner of the mouth.  It's not enough to affect performance yet, but disappointing, for sure.  I don't use it often, and I do have a No. 6 and a No. 7 that will most often work - but sometimes it's just the thing to pull out that big gun...
The wrong kind of non-conformist.

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