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(04-22-2024, 06:02 PM)jteneyck Wrote: Oh, that's interesting. As typically is the case, someone was WAY ahead of me. The circular scale is clever and helps reduce the overall size, for better or for worse, depending upon the scale of your projects. It also allows you to cut any angle, if you can figure out how to hold the workpiece when it's almost parallel with the blade.
One benefit of the linear scale on my unit is the increased accuracy. I think Duby recognized that when they developed it.
Thanks for posting that. Do you use it? If not, why not?
John
Hello John,
Yes, I use the Miter Top with my Craftsman radial arm saw.
I made an auxiliary top for the Miter Top out of 1/4-inch Masonite to protect the actual top from being cut.
I use a 45-degree triangle to set the moveable miter bar rather than relying on the scale attached to the perimeter of the Miter Top.
A great accessory for $29.00!
Roger
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John, This is a great idea , and something I may be interested in as well. I have a very nice RAS but currently just use it for 90 degree cutting and never move the arm, but my saw is setup on a longer table and fence. I would like to email you some pics if I could, to see if your system would work with my setup? Thanks John
Gordon
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(04-23-2024, 04:37 PM)RogerD Wrote: Hello John,
Yes, I use the Miter Top with my Craftsman radial arm saw.
I made an auxiliary top for the Miter Top out of 1/4-inch Masonite to protect the actual top from being cut.
I use a 45-degree triangle to set the moveable miter bar rather than relying on the scale attached to the perimeter of the Miter Top.
A great accessory for $29.00!
Roger
Thanks for that feedback, Roger. Glad it's been of use to you all these years. I noticed right off that the protractor is fairly small in diameter, so the accuracy in setting the angle will be lower than with the system I have, and used on the Duby sled. So setting it with the triangle is a good idea.
John
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(04-25-2024, 06:23 PM)gordon 131 Wrote: John, This is a great idea , and something I may be interested in as well. I have a very nice RAS but currently just use it for 90 degree cutting and never move the arm, but my saw is setup on a longer table and fence. I would like to email you some pics if I could, to see if your system would work with my setup? Thanks John
Gordon
Thanks, Gordon. Sure, feel free to email me at
jteneyck54@live.com
I'd be happy to look at your setup and see if my miter table will work with it. I can tell you already, as long as your fence is removeable, it will. If it's not, then we have to make the miter table fit against that fence, which is how Gordon's Sears unit appears to be setup. In any case, I think we'll be able to do it.
John
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When I made the scale that shows the angle for setting the miter fences, I used a V-bit. The lines ended up with a variable width which turned out to be caused by the non-uniform thickness of the aluminum extrusion. In looking for a solution, I found that a spring loaded engraving bit would not suffer the same problem. The spring would keep the bit pressed firmly to the aluminum over the variations in thickness, which should result in uniform lines. And it does.
![[Image: AP1GczMFPb3_Gr_c5F7l5iE381QSb2GCgE_7ARZ4...authuser=1]](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMFPb3_Gr_c5F7l5iE381QSb2GCgE_7ARZ4cexT59qLJC8h3ZFdW_T92WTNyvHvueGrW40VOAqm5Mxc3E759_itN5KH4MFgy3AP1kAKDzopz3mVmca-NGtKEowEPV-_n5EI6607aNs2RvBzRNlFtwltQA=w498-h885-s-no?authuser=1)
I used the back side of the same scales, that's why there are two sets of mounting slots. With the new scale, I placed short lines in one degree increments, and full width lines every 5 degrees, plus at 18 and 22.5 degrees. I'm happy with how good it now looks. The only improvement I can envision would be to use anodized aluminum so that the lines and numbers would be more prominent.
I've been thinking about a length stop system. Since everyone has their own thoughts on what's best, I may forgo adding one but move the locking knobs further rearward to allow plenty of room to add whatever stop system the user desires, or none at all. This will help keep the cost down of any kit I come up with.
John
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The anodize would really be sexy...but probably real expensive. Maybe filling the etchings with paint (or something) that the owner could do later would be an option?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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(Yesterday, 10:13 AM)fredhargis Wrote: The anodize would really be sexy...but probably real expensive. Maybe filling the etchings with paint (or something) that the owner could do later would be an option?
I tried putting paint in them, but it mostly came out when I wiped off what was on the flats. Maybe some other technique would give better results. I found a source for black anodized aluminum bar stock the same size I'm using and it's not too expensive so I may give it a try.
John
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