I need a woodworker in Overland Park
#11
I'm going to needing someone to rip a 4X8 sheet of plywood into 6 pieces at 4" each.
Of course I'm willing to pay.

Jim
Jim
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#12
Buy it at Home Depot. They will rip it for free on their panel saw.

Doug
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#13
(07-09-2024, 10:09 AM)Tapper Wrote: Buy it at Home Depot. They will rip it for free on their panel saw.

Doug

They won't rip less than 12" pieces.
Jim
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#14
Buy an 8’ piece of 1/4” aluminum L-channel, a good circular saw, and 2 c-clamps.
You can make a very good saw guide using the L-channel and a piece of the plywood.

This gets you back in business with woodworking too.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#15
(07-09-2024, 02:22 PM)Gary G™ Wrote: Buy an 8’ piece of 1/4” aluminum L-channel, a good circular saw, and 2 c-clamps.
You can make a very good saw guide using the L-channel and a piece of the plywood.

This gets you back in business with woodworking too.

Good idea Gary. I'll have to see if they have the L channel. I was trying to think of a good light weight 8' guide. I  still have my circular saw and several clamps.

And away we go!

Jim
Jim
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#16
I'm not in Overland Park. I am in the Turner area, next door(Wyandot County). If you want to help, I can do those rips in my garage/driveway. I have a Porter Cable portable saw that I have used many times for just such a job.

Send me a PM.
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#17
(07-09-2024, 02:54 PM)Halfathumb Wrote: Good idea Gary. I'll have to see if they have the L channel. I was trying to think of a good light weight 8' guide. I  still have my circular saw and several clamps.

And away we go!

Jim

This is what I’ve used:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-1-in...le/3058171

I ripped two pieces of plywood from a sheet using the aluminum for the guide:
One piece a bit wider than the bottom of the saw plus some to rip off.
One piece 1-1/4” wide.
I attached the 1-1/4” wide piece to the wider one in a position which left a little more than each side of the saw exposed.
For my PC, it was about 1-3/4 in one side and 5-1/4” on the other because it’ll get ripped to 1-1/2” and 5”.
It’s got to be close but not perfect.
This narrow top piece becomes the fence to make it just right.
Set it on sawhorses or something similar and keeping the saw against the fence on each side, rip to fit.
You end up with a plywood track saw for each side.
Clamp on the cut line and rip perfect pieces every time.
Gary

Please don’t quote the trolls.
Liberty, Freedom and Individual Responsibility
Say what you'll do and do what you say.
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#18
Beyond this one job, and consistent with your other post about a small garage workshop, you might consider getting an extruded aluminum straight edge/cutting guide.  Here is a link to the Empire Brand cutting guide at Home Depot.

I bought one of these guides about 20 years ago when I needed to edge joint some boards with my router.  

I still have the guide and used it just last week to cut sheet goods. 

The guide comes in two 4-foot sections for easy storage.

Very cost effective solution for cutting straight lines up to 8 feet long.  And as I know from personal experience, use it with a router (equipped with spiral cutting bit) to edge joint boards.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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#19
Jim, hope you are doing well.  If you go with the Empire style clamp,  consider making a sled for your circular saw -  i did with a cordless saw and it worked great.    I just searched to see if I could find a site showing construction, but came up empty,  but it is very simple to make, and the saw just sits in the sled, so it won't wander at all in making the cut.  If you are interested, let me know, and I will take photos of the one I made.
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#20
(07-09-2024, 10:02 AM)Halfathumb Wrote: I'm going to needing someone to rip a 4X8 sheet of plywood into 6 pieces at 4" each.
Of course I'm willing to pay.

Jim

I made something called a saw board for tasks like you're considering. If you do a search you'll see what I'm talking about. Mine is made from 1/8" fiber board with a length of aluminum honeycomb matrix metal glued to it. I used 1/8" fiberboard rather than something thicker because I intend to use this with a saw with a 4" blade and didn't want to lose too much depth of cut. Actually I made 2, 1 4' long and 1 8' long. The 8' one is stored on top of a horizontal aluminum extension ladder. The aluminum panel was something I had around.

I cut one edge on the aluminum panel as straight as I could manage. I glued it to the fiber board with melamine glue. I use a Porter Cable 314 trim saw and made the distance from the edge of the fiberboard to the edge of the aluminum panel about an inch more than the distance from the P-C 314s blade to the edge of the base. Once the glue was well set I put the saw against the aluminum strip and making sure to keep the saw against the aluminum strip I cut the fiberboard. Now I can put the edge of the fiberboard on the line and it'll cut exactly where the edge of the fiberboard lies. I think a worm drive saw may be easier to use on a rig like this than a sidewinder. There is no tendency at all for the little P-C to twist or leave the edge of the aluminum fence. It works very well for me.
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