Outfeed Table

[Tapper]

I did make an outfeed table with the removable pins and decided to overengineer by going with a torsion box. The top skin is 1/2" ply, the bottom is 1/8" hardboard, and the ribs are 1/4" ply. I definitely wouldn't want to try to remove 1 1/2" of MDF - that's going to be hella heavy.

It also must have taken 5x as long to make

Yours sounds like a good one. As was mentioned above, I didn't make the top.

Doug

[rudedan60]

   
Just saw your thread on this outfeed table. I think I bought the same kit from Rockler and am planning on the making the same outfeed table.  I did not want to take it off the saw like their other kit.  I had a old interation of that one and still have the kit for it, the legs were made to use the Card table hinge block. Thanks for the post, because I know it works now.
Just wnted to add, I have a old tabletop that may work for this. I will post when completed.

[Tapper]

Just saw your thread on this outfeed table. I think I bought the same kit from Rockler and am planning on the making the same outfeed table.  I did not want to take it off the saw like their other kit.  I had a old interation of that one and still have the kit for it, the legs were made to use the Card table hinge block. Thanks for the post, because I know it works now.
Just wnted to add, I have a old tabletop that may work for this. I will post when completed.

Good luck! The rail on the rear of my saw is L-shaped and lent itself to the installation technique I chose. Will look forward to your post.

Doug

[tablesawtom]

I love the idea of a solid extension table. Never cared about rollers.  I put cabinmates with drawers in it under mine.  I am one of the fortunate ones that had a Permanente spot for my saw. I  do however like the UV finished plywood. Light weight and a couple of stiffeners can be added if necessary. And the Rockler legs look handy, fast and above easy to use with out hassle, so it will get used more often than not.

I do not know the distance from the back of the blade when it is at its highest point on your saw to the back of the extended table but I prefer 5 feet so a 8 foot piece will not lift up.  If another foot is added then a 10 bard can be cut. There are a lot of over the saw blade injuries because of the board dropping down, lifting the hands. There are multiple reason for an extension table  And I personally can't find one reason no to have one, Disclaimer, this is not a safety issue about not using a guard, Fact this is about a safety issue about the board having a landing place after being cut without it dropping. Did I mention just the plain convenience of having one.

So if you are planning on making an extension table like the one shown , And I encourage you to do so, Consider making it expandable to at least 5 foot.

And thank you Trapper for sharing your saws upgrade with us.

Tom

[Tapper]

I love the idea of a solid extension table. Never cared about rollers.  I put cabinmates with drawers in it under mine.  I am one of the fortunate ones that had a Permanente spot for my saw. I  do however like the UV finished plywood. Light weight and a couple of stiffeners can be added if necessary. And the Rockler legs look handy, fast and above easy to use with out hassle, so it will get used more often than not.

I do not know the distance from the back of the blade when it is at its highest point on your saw to the back of the extended table but I prefer 5 feet so a 8 foot piece will not lift up.  If another foot is added then a 10 bard can be cut. There are a lot of over the saw blade injuries because of the board dropping down, lifting the hands. There are multiple reason for an extension table  And I personally can't find one reason no to have one, Disclaimer, this is not a safety issue about not using a guard, Fact this is about a safety issue about the board having a landing place after being cut without it dropping. Did I mention just the plain convenience of having one.

So if you are planning on making an extension table like the one shown , And I encourage you to do so, Consider making it expandable to at least 5 foot.

And thank you Trapper Tapper for sharing your saws upgrade with us.

Tom

Thanks for your comments, Tom. My Sawstop PCS is on a mobile base so it moves around depending on what I'm doing and what clearances are necessary. The SS also reduces the danger factor in handling material. My outfeed table extends 27" out beyond the back of my saw. If I need more support than this, I have roller stands for the extra length. 

I do not handle large pieces of panel material on the tablesaw - too unwieldy for me. I either break the material down first with power hand tools (small circular saw, jig saw or even handsaws) or get the folks at Home Depot to precut large pieces on their panel saw before bringing them home.

This setup handles the largest majority of my needs - YMMV.

Doug

[tablesawtom]

I mainly build work benches now and I use a eight foot sled a lot. I am not a fan of roller stands but I do have a coupe that I built and put small hydraulic jacks in them to set the height. Easy to use and they never slip. I use them more on my planner than saw. But how you are doing it makes since to me.  

I saw the  picture of  your set up, but I am just curious, what is the distance from the back of the blade to the end of the table?

Tom

[Tapper]

Approximately 36"

Doug

[tablesawtom]

Approximately 36"

Doug

Thank you for that information.

Tom