Want/Need New Router

[Bill Holt]

As I reported on 5/19, one of my good, Made in USA, routers died.  I'm ready to replace it with a good corded 1 1/2 to 2 hp router.  I have the 18V Makita (disappointed in the poor grip of the router bit), another made in USA PC, a 3 1/4 hp PC in the router table, and an old Craftsman.  Even though I own only three Milwaukee tools, I am very impressed with the quality.  All of that build up to ask, what do you think of the Milwaukee 5619-20 router for $199?  What would buy?

[JDuke]

I have several routers lost count at 15 or so if you count trim routers.

I have the big Milwaukee in a cast iron table that has the height adjustment like that one. The router is OK it does occasionally have speed control issues, but usually turning it off and back on a few times is enough to get it going. The height adjustment is kind of sticky in that it will not move when you turn the knob then drop more than you wanted.

My favorite for table use is the Triton, but I haven’t needed parts for one, and suspect that may be more of a problem than it would be with Milwaukee.
For handheld I have several dewalt 616 and 618s but they are also known for speed control issues.
Even some of the older porter cable plunge routers had speed control issues.

I must admit if I see a used router or router table I usually find a way to cram it in my shop.

That’s why I have 2 of the 3hp PC routers in lifts in cast iron tables.
A Milwaukee in cast iron table
A Triton in cast iron table
Another triton in an aluminum table.
Another triton in another cast iron table
And a couple routers in lifts that don’t even have tables.
Also 1/2 a dozen probably more handheld routers with both plunge and fixed bases.

Lately if I need precision and don’t need power like most 1/4 shank bits I’ll use one of the 4 dewalt battery trim routers.

If I need more power then I’ll use either dewalt 616,618 or an old PC 690
More power than that I’d rather use a table and hold workpiece with both hands.

[fredhargis]

I'd go with the Milwaukee. I have 2-5615s, a 5616, and a 5625 in my table. A couple of things about them, some of the PC stuff will work on the Milwaukees, like the fence (if you have it). But you can also easily get some weird size collets for the Milwaukee, like the metric sizes and 3/8". That said, all my Milwaukee routers are NA made, since the change in ownership and move to Asian manufacture I'm not sure my opinion holds. Testimony about any of the good old brands is likely to be the same, the new stuff may (or may not) be related to what they used to be. If you step away from those brands a recent review I read of routers awarded the Skil router as being very good and a very good value.

[jteneyck]

I've never understood the benefit of a D-handle router, but maybe I'm missing something.  I'd be more interested in the two handled version.  But for $199 you could buy the Bosch 1617 kit with both a fixed and plunge base, or just the fixed base version for $149.  I have two of them and they are easy to adjust, very smooth running with excellent speed control, and durable. 

John

[FrankAtl]

Another vote for the Bosch 1617. I've had one for 10 years or so and it's a beast!

[kurt18947]

I've never understood the benefit of a D-handle router, but maybe I'm missing something.  I'd be more interested in the two handled version.  But for $199 you could buy the Bosch 1617 kit with both a fixed and plunge base, or just the fixed base version for $149.  I have two of them and they are easy to adjust, very smooth running with excellent speed control, and durable. 

John

I kinda thought that D handled routers were preferred for dovetail jigs. That and the fact that the Porter Cable D handles at least had that finger trigger power switch built into the handle so could be operated with one hand. Some of the routers of that time had a toggle power switch on the body of the router so required two hands to turn it on and off.

[bjmh4]

I kinda thought that D handled routers were preferred for dovetail jigs. That and the fact that the Porter Cable D handles at least had that finger trigger power switch built into the handle so could be operated with one hand. Some of the routers of that time had a toggle power switch on the body of the router so required two hands to turn it on and off.

I agree! I have a PC speedmatic with both regular and d-handle bases. Can't remember the last time I used anything but the d-handle. Much more stable and as Kurt stated easy enough to use one-handed.

[jteneyck]

I kinda thought that D handled routers were preferred for dovetail jigs. That and the fact that the Porter Cable D handles at least had that finger trigger power switch built into the handle so could be operated with one hand. Some of the routers of that time had a toggle power switch on the body of the router so required two hands to turn it on and off.

The easy on/off feature would be an advantage.  But there must be some disadvantages as it doesn't look like many are sold compared to common two handled models.  The unbalanced placement of your hands would be one issue, at least for me.  Can you lock the switch on on the D-handled models?  I would want to be able to do that.  

John

[RogerD]

I have two Craftsman routers that have three handles. A fixed, D handle and plunge bases.

I use the D handle base frequently.

I tried to attach a picture but do not see a way to attach.

[Bill Holt]

Actually, I've never used a D handle.  Norm used the D handle, so why not...I have both plunge and fixed bases.  To be honest, I just want to spend my money wisely.  I had forgotten about Bosh; their jig saw and their angle grinder are standards.

Keep the responses flowing.