01-26-2022, 01:29 AM
I'm looking to start the next project and clean up from the late 70's and whoever did this remodel. I've only messed with deck stairs, but I think I have a plan partially formulated.
Whoever did the flooring didn't account for the change in height. I need to raise each stair tread 5/8" - 3/4" to eliminate the step height difference at the top and bottom stairs of each set. I'm also going to make the gaps in the balusters proper since they are obviously too wide now. The plastic lattice was my cheapo temporary solution from five years ago when we moved in. My kids were 2 and 5 at the time and discovered they could fit between them. I needed a fast solution before my tools were unpacked and workspace setup.
Here's my plan with questions along with way and a few gaps. Let me know what you all think.
1. Remove tile from landing, to be replaced later.
2. screw the treads and risers together to make them more solid. I can access underneath both sets..
3. Cut the existing tread bullnoses back to the existing risers.
4. Remove old rails/balusters/posts.
5. On upper half, cut the existing tread exposed side back to the stringer, where the they are notched out currently. Or should I just fill in the notches?
6. Attach a new block to lengthen each tread for support of the new balusters. I would use dominos/pocket hole screws/glue.
7. Attach an oak re-tread tread to each stair tread on upper and lower sections. This would cover the new block as well. Should I attach with construction adhesive, screws, or both?
8. Back with a 1/4" MDF panel over the riser that will be painted to match the trim in the end.
9. Fabricate and attach oak end cap to the upper treads to match style.
10. Stain and polyurethane oak to match the laminate floors on the upper level. Should I use floor polyurethane for this? I'm assuming so. Would it make more sense to do this at the end to cut down the amount of time the stairs have no rails?
11. Install new posts at the landing and upper level. These will be oak, stained to match the top of the mantel and bookshelf I built earlier.
12. Install metal balusters and handrail together. I'm assuming that the balusters are drilled into the bottom of the handrail and this has to be done at the same time? I need to get a couple samples from the store for these parts. Would it make sense to get a metal chop saw to cut the balusters? I've been thinking about getting one anyway.
13. What can I do to make the exposed part of the stringers look better on both the top edges and side of the upper set? They're somewhat rough 2x material. Should I sand them down before repainting? Should I find some way to cover them?
14. Replace baseboard trim with something less obnoxious. The baseboard trim will be painted white as well.
15. Retile landing.
[attachment=40186]
[attachment=40187]
[attachment=40188]
[attachment=40189]
Whoever did the flooring didn't account for the change in height. I need to raise each stair tread 5/8" - 3/4" to eliminate the step height difference at the top and bottom stairs of each set. I'm also going to make the gaps in the balusters proper since they are obviously too wide now. The plastic lattice was my cheapo temporary solution from five years ago when we moved in. My kids were 2 and 5 at the time and discovered they could fit between them. I needed a fast solution before my tools were unpacked and workspace setup.
Here's my plan with questions along with way and a few gaps. Let me know what you all think.
1. Remove tile from landing, to be replaced later.
2. screw the treads and risers together to make them more solid. I can access underneath both sets..
3. Cut the existing tread bullnoses back to the existing risers.
4. Remove old rails/balusters/posts.
5. On upper half, cut the existing tread exposed side back to the stringer, where the they are notched out currently. Or should I just fill in the notches?
6. Attach a new block to lengthen each tread for support of the new balusters. I would use dominos/pocket hole screws/glue.
7. Attach an oak re-tread tread to each stair tread on upper and lower sections. This would cover the new block as well. Should I attach with construction adhesive, screws, or both?
8. Back with a 1/4" MDF panel over the riser that will be painted to match the trim in the end.
9. Fabricate and attach oak end cap to the upper treads to match style.
10. Stain and polyurethane oak to match the laminate floors on the upper level. Should I use floor polyurethane for this? I'm assuming so. Would it make more sense to do this at the end to cut down the amount of time the stairs have no rails?
11. Install new posts at the landing and upper level. These will be oak, stained to match the top of the mantel and bookshelf I built earlier.
12. Install metal balusters and handrail together. I'm assuming that the balusters are drilled into the bottom of the handrail and this has to be done at the same time? I need to get a couple samples from the store for these parts. Would it make sense to get a metal chop saw to cut the balusters? I've been thinking about getting one anyway.
13. What can I do to make the exposed part of the stringers look better on both the top edges and side of the upper set? They're somewhat rough 2x material. Should I sand them down before repainting? Should I find some way to cover them?
14. Replace baseboard trim with something less obnoxious. The baseboard trim will be painted white as well.
15. Retile landing.
[attachment=40186]
[attachment=40187]
[attachment=40188]
[attachment=40189]