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+-- Thread: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane (/showthread.php?tid=7326699)
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RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - Admiral - 01-05-2017
(01-05-2017, 10:21 AM)tuneswoodshop Wrote: Thnaks for the input,
I am looking to true up boards no longer then four foot long. I make a mix of different items including boxes and the occasional piece of furniture.
I do have a table saw to rip the boards on but looking for something that is easy to get a perfectly square edge. I generally have decent luck getting a straight edge right off my table saw. I do have a benchtop jointer that is a pos and delivers me terrible results I have checked everything on the jointer to make it true but its fence design leaves a lot to be desired. I was considering upgrading jointers but if I could get the results I am looking for with a hand plane that is the direction I want to get since I have limited space and don't really need another tool taking up space.
I also make a lot of end grain cutting boards and want to get a plane to level the stock after glue up instead of burning up planter blades.
I generally buy straight lined rip so I do have a straight edge on one side but for some reason the last batch of wood that I got the straight edge is not really that straight.
Hope this helps shine some more light on situation
Steve makes a good point above that you're not really going to get what you want surfacing stock without a #5 to precede use of the jointer, which would be for final surfacing; #6s are also quite useful for this rougher work before a BU jointer. Vintage would be your best option for both which together would be about 30% of the cost of one premium #5, I honestly can't see the value in a LN or LV #5 for this type of work. The LV BU jointer is, undoubtedly a great plane, I would not sell mine but I'm an O1 or A2 iron type of guy.....
RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - cputnam - 01-05-2017
I think the Veritas BU jointer was my second new plane. I have the fence for it and use it to clean up all my edges. My power jointer tables are not aligned properly and have been that way for some time because the BU jointer works so well for me. I also like the more upright tote - fits my hand better. Note that the BU smoother and the BU jack and the BU jointer all take the same blades. I like and use that "systems" aspect. When you buy blades you have a choice of bevel angles. Just buy the 25° blades and add your own secondary bevel as needed. Learned that trick from Derek Cohen.
RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - HomerLee - 01-05-2017
Quote:I do have a table saw to rip the boards on but looking for something that is easy to get a perfectly square edge. I generally have decent luck getting a straight edge right off my table saw.Since you are ripping boards on your table saw I would buy a Freud "Glue Line" blade for the table saw and your jointing will be minimal; you will save a lot of work. Then as has been mentioned get a Veritas fence for the jointer. I have the Veritas BU jointer, jack, and smoother, all exceptionally good planes.
RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - perfgen - 01-06-2017
+1 Totally
RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - AHill - 01-06-2017
(01-05-2017, 10:56 PM)HomerLee Wrote: Since you are ripping boards on your table saw I would buy a Freud "Glue Line" blade for the table saw and your jointing will be minimal; you will save a lot of work. Then as has been mentioned get a Veritas fence for the jointer. I have the Veritas BU jointer, jack, and smoother, all exceptionally good planes.
+2. Even with a good, premium combo blade, I've never had to use a plane to square or clean up my edges prior to glue-up. And I've never had a glue failure. The Freud Glue Line Rip blade is probably the least expensive investment to ensure quality edges. If your rip cuts are not square, you either don't have flat stock or you need to adjust your blade tilt.
RE: Veritas Bevel-Up Jointer Plane - Steve Friedman - 01-06-2017
Lots of good advice. I don't think that the jointer is what you will want for end gain chopping boards. I used the LV Bevel Up Smoother the last time I tried that. I hear that a drum sander is the right tool for that, but it's not going to happen in my world.
As a I get older, I am starting to appreciate how much easier things are when you can add electricity to the mix. So, if I had a table saw that left glue-ready edges and a working planer, I'm not sure I would even own a jointer plane unless I needed to flatten boards wider than the planer.
Allan may be right about using a bevel up jack to flatten and edge a 4' long board, but he's got much more skill than me. I would probably need to use a longer plane.
That said, I use my jack and block planes much more than the jointers.
I agree with Admiral on the vintage #5. Virtually all of my planes are made by L-N or LV, except for my #5s (including the one I got from Admiral). They are cheap. plentiful, and take a lot of abuse doing the grunt work. I also used a vintage #7 that had been flattened by Tablesaw Tom until I was fortunate enough to replace it with a L-N #7. But I miss that 7. Not as shiny as the L-N version, but definitely lighter.
The fact that the blades on the Veritas planes are interchangeable is a nice feature, but I always wonder how much people really stop to swap out blades. I do rarely, and only if the PM-VII blade (I only have one) is in the other plane. Most times I just reach for a plane knowing which blade is in there.
As for the blade metal, it may depend on your sharpening method. I don't use oil stones, but seem to recall that they struggle with PM-VII. I use waterstones and have never had a problem.
Good luck with your shopping. Let us know what you decide and post some pictures.
Steve