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+-- Thread: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil (/showthread.php?tid=7336047)
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RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - Cooler - 01-12-2018
(01-10-2018, 08:44 PM)Paul K. Murphy Wrote: I'm also in the "No Finish" camp, or wax alone. I go with bare wood for the top surfaces too. I mark mine up when I want to. I put pencil marks on it to assist me in my task as needed.
I'd never heard of Slip-It, or whatever. I looked it up. You ARE using the type with no silicone, right? Do not introduce silicone oil into your woodshop. I wouldn't even use it on the bottom of a sled. Any product with any characteristic that suggests the possibility of silicone oil must say, "Contains No Silicone" on the can. If it does not say that, it probably contains silicone.
I agree. Silicone will compromise adhesion forever.
If you have a hated neighbor and he has had a small fender bender, then when you are walking the dog at night spray the damaged area with silicone spray.
The body filler will not adhere and will probably break off, the paint will peel. Repeated repairs will result in repeated failures. It is almost impossible to remove all traces of silicone.
Chrysler had some silicone contamination in the 1980s and the paint was peeling off the roof and hoods of cars. They paid for repaint, but the repaint repairs eventually failed.
I would only use Johnson's wax, or a carnuba wax. I make my runners from oak and I sand them to a tight, but smooth fit. If you get a good fit it will slide reasonably well as long as you keep the slots clear of sawdust. The wax helps but not enough for me to redo it. I wax the cast iron on my saw a couple of times a year but I make sure that I wipe it down well after application.
RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - photobug - 01-14-2018
(01-12-2018, 08:39 AM)Cooler Wrote: I agree. Silicone will compromise adhesion forever.
I am very aware of silicone's properties, having worked on sailboats. Once it is there it is impossible to get rid of and nothing adheres to it.
I am however fortunate. Reading these posts on the silicone, I assumed my 20 year old tub of Slip-it is probably silicone laced but it is labeled "no silicone".
RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - Stwood_ - 01-14-2018
(01-10-2018, 08:28 AM)TheSensoryStore Wrote: I believe the original color is some sort of cheap stay topcoat in one, but have found that the Danish Oil is almost a perfect match. I have already built finished and installed one set of the cabinets and they matched perfectly. A peninsula where their drop in range is being installed. For the back, I am going to install the sheet of veneered MDF with trim around the borders.
To finish the face frames and doors I applied the Danish oil then applied a coat of brushing lacquer, then sanded and wiped on a coat of satin wipe on poly to match the sheen of the rest of their kitchen. The lacquer bonded well to the Danish oil and gave me the build that I wanted. The wipe on poly gave the perfect sheen with no brush marks, sags, bubbles, or dust nibs.
I see a spammer slipped in....
RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - Scoony - 01-17-2018
The best finish I found for jigs is Watco Teak Oil. One coat should do it. Seals and protects the wood without leaving a slick surface.
RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - Willyou - 01-19-2018
If you feel strongly about putting a couple of coats of poly on it, why not just use an oil based poly. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it would be fully compatible with the danish oil; especially if it dries a couple of days.
RE: Waterbased Poly over Danish Oil - photobug - 01-21-2018
(01-19-2018, 06:09 PM)Willyou Wrote: If you feel strongly about putting a couple of coats of poly on it, why not just use an oil based poly. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it would be fully compatible with the danish oil; especially if it dries a couple of days.
I had just bought a gallon of High Performance Poly, and wanted to use it. I am trying to keep down my products on hand as I am often throwing away expired cans of paints, glues, etc.
So far the danish oil has been my go to for jigs and shop cabinets and has held up well. It is method I got from Woodnet a decade ago when asking about the easiest finish. My favorite part of it is not needed to sand between layers.