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+-- Thread: Plumbing code question (/showthread.php?tid=7359212)
RE: Plumbing code question - Robert Adams - 12-01-2020
When it comes to what is required by code you can almost throw the book out the window. Anyone that has been in construction knows that the only thing that matters is what the inspector wants to see. It doesn't matter if he is totally wrong and the code clearly says otherwise. If anyone has an issue with anything that was done in the future they can take it up with the inspector since he put his stamp of approval on it that it was done right.
And yeah I know about the goofiness in Ohio. The better half is from there and the first time I saw the sticker on the waterheater I was confused... Of all the things to inspect plumbing wise I am not worried about the waterheater...
RE: Plumbing code question - blackhat - 12-01-2020
Codes usually don’t stipulate a particular valve as being acceptable or not. They will state that materials must meet a relevant standard. I believe Sharkbite has gone to the effort and expense of having their products certified to the most common standards. Unless there is some local ordinance prohibiting certain products you should be ok. A phone call to your local inspector’s office should have your question answered in 10 minutes or so.
RE: Plumbing code question - Robert Adams - 12-01-2020
I'll add I'm not fond of the idea of using push on connectors (sharkbite is just a brand of them)when they are buried in the ground like at the meter etc.
RE: Plumbing code question - daddo - 12-02-2020
I just replaced the main line to my house. Not aware of any codes. I pretty well kept the same arrangement. Meter/psi regulator/cut off ball valve- but added a union before taking off toward the house. That way I can remove everything from the meter to after the cut off to redo it it if need be.
I ran 1" pvc inside a 2" pvc run, so I can pull a new pipe of any type in the future should there be a problem and no need to back fill with sand and to allow for expansion or pressure from roots. I added a large box with cover at each end to access the connections and not to have to dig them up again.
I didn't go shark type valves until I got in the house.
The shark bite valve should be fine if it isn't buried. I would try and use a threaded solid brass ball valve exposed though and a union to make it easily repairable.
RE: Plumbing code question - Bob10 - 12-02-2020
(11-30-2020, 01:53 PM)Scouter Wrote: I have to replace the shutoff valve after the meter. The setup is:
It's an old valve leaking at the stem, but the stem can't be replaced (no nut to remove it), so I have to solder it off and replace it (not a biggie). I have a SharkBite valve rated at 200 psi, can this be used or do I need to replace it with a soldered valve? Not sure what code might stipulate.
- Line into the house
- Shutoff valve
- Meter
- Backflow valve
- Shutoff valve (this is the one that's leaking)
I had a friend have a water pressure reducing valve go bad in a tight space that was above ground and easy to see yet hard to access. I cut out the old one with a grinder to keep spacing the same and replaced with a shark bite probably 10 years back. No leaks yet, there was a 90 close to it so that is where the little play in the pipe to allow the rest to happen was found
RE: Plumbing code question - Snipe Hunter - 12-03-2020
Jurisdiction Having Authority (JHI) is the defining code in your Jurisdiction... Local code, not state, not national, not international.
While I use Shark Bites, sometimes just cutting out the old valve and installing a new one with repair couplings is easier. Sounds like your valve is soldered in, not threaded?
RE: Plumbing code question - Roly - 12-03-2020
(12-03-2020, 07:32 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: Jurisdiction Having Authority (JHI) is the defining code in your Jurisdiction... Local code, not state, not national, not international.
While I use Shark Bites, sometimes just cutting out the old valve and installing a new one with repair couplings is easier. Sounds like your valve is soldered in, not threaded?
Remember if your water pipe is part of your electrical grounding system place a jumper around the Sharkbite type of fittings as they don't guarantee continuity . Roly
RE: Plumbing code question - Snipe Hunter - 12-03-2020
(12-03-2020, 08:26 AM)Roly Wrote: Remember if your water pipe is part of your electrical grounding system place a jumper around the Sharkbite type of fittings as they don't guarantee continuity . Roly
+1
Same with the water heater
RE: Plumbing code question - JosephP - 12-03-2020
(12-01-2020, 11:01 AM)Roly Wrote: The local authority is the one you need to make happy. Call them.
As far as state codes it was mentioned his states does not have any.
OhioOhio has mandatory statewide codes.
- Ohio Building Code – 2015 IBC
- 2019 Ohio Residential Code – 2018 IRC
- Ohio Plumbing Code – 2015 IPC
- Ohio Mechanical Code – 2015 IMC
- 2011 National Electrical Code (NEC) – 2011 NFPA 70
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They have the codes, just not enforced or enacted at the local level. Remember the codes are the minimum standard, not the best practice. Roly
"In Ohio, all non-residential buildings (other than 1-, 2-, and 3-family dwellings, and agricultural buildings) are required to comply with the requirements of the Ohio Building, Mechanical, and Plumbing Codes"
Source
RE: Plumbing code question - aquaticjim - 12-06-2020
(12-02-2020, 04:45 PM)daddo Wrote: I just replaced the main line to my house. Not aware of any codes. I pretty well kept the same arrangement. Meter/psi regulator/cut off ball valve- but added a union before taking off toward the house. That way I can remove everything from the meter to after the cut off to redo it it if need be.
I ran 1" pvc inside a 2" pvc run, so I can pull a new pipe of any type in the future should there be a problem and no need to back fill with sand and to allow for expansion or pressure from roots. I added a large box with cover at each end to access the connections and not to have to dig them up again.
I didn't go shark type valves until I got in the house.
The shark bite valve should be fine if it isn't buried. I would try and use a threaded solid brass ball valve exposed though and a union to make it easily repairable.
Are you sure you used PVC? I was told by my local inspector that PVC can only be used for waste. Potable water requires CPVC.