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+-- Thread: Handcut DT ? (/showthread.php?tid=7246667)
RE: Handcut DT ? - Derek Cohen - 02-18-2017
Building a bombe is the apex for many woodworkers. Building the curves is hard enough. Fitting the drawers with compound dovetails is another big challenge. Headache territory. Dave, this is why I would say that Peter has just stopped for a "rest" along the way
I stick to contemporary styled furniture, which is why my bombe is svelt compared to yours, Dave.
![[Image: 4a_zpssxrhkdws.jpg]](http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/4a_zpssxrhkdws.jpg)
![[Image: 2a_zps9ncplwea.jpg]](http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Linergrie%20Chest/2a_zps9ncplwea.jpg)
Unlike Dave, who builds for a living, and has the experience and skill to leapfrog over marking the angles, I am just a weekend warrior. I take time - which I have - and pleasure in marking out, and meticulously sawing and chiseling joinery. I do not care for baselines being left behind, and marking out is complete done in such a way that they can be planed away. Sometimes they are not. Spacing is deliberate as it is part of the design. Again, because I may build two large pieces each year, they carry more significance than if I were building two pieces each month.
I recall reading in one of Krevov's books that his dovetails were deliberately non-symmetrical. They were more tightly spaced at the outside, where the stresses lay. I am not sure if this is actually true about stress in a drawer, since dovetails - no matter the design - are pretty strong. At the end of the day, just make them as you see fit. Some see them as utilitarian joints, and put in just a token effort at spacing and design. Others view them as a feature, as I do, and put in more time. At the end of the day they are just one part of the piece.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Handcut DT ? - Sierramtns - 02-18-2017
I deliberately cut my dovetail asymmetrically (differing spacing) if they are on a drawer front (half blinds). I space the dovetails closer together near the top and bottom of the drawer, and further apart nearer the center. Two reasons for this: 1 - corners likely to have greater stress, and 2 - I like the look. I also usually cut an odd number (3,5,7) dovetails on each corner for the aesthetics of symmetry above/below the center of drawer height. There is no standard that I know of for this, but this is what I was taught at woodworking school. College of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking School.
RE: Handcut DT ? - Steve N - 02-18-2017
I am not a fan of contemporary furniture, but that is pretty bad azz Derek. I like......
RE: Handcut DT ? - Derek Cohen - 02-18-2017
Thanks Steve.
Regards from Perth
Derek
RE: Handcut DT ? - YSU65 - 02-19-2017
I was redoing some Shaker style built in cupboards with drawers, wanted to use DT's for them. I had never done any before, no bench but did have saw horses. I practiced on scrap wood using a pull saw from Lowe's. The ones in the back are widely spaced, more even in the front. I have a cover board in front to help alignment, ie, not half blind. Are these "Derek Quality"? Not at all, but not bad for a rookie. After 14 years of daily use, no problems. I found that even bad DT's are really strong. Good luck..
RE: Handcut DT ? - honda - 02-19-2017
(02-18-2017, 06:58 PM)Aram Wrote: I haven't, but there's a detailed article in PWW #203, April 2013, starting on page 32.
Aram,
Thanks a bunch, I reviewed and it looks like a very helpful article.
honda
RE: Handcut DT ? - rwe2156 - 02-20-2017
For drawers, I eyeball them.
For a carcase I shoot for symmetry.