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+-- Thread: Kick back question (/showthread.php?tid=7338427)
RE: Kick back question - Cooler - 04-23-2018
The out-feed table is done. I mimicked the Festool MFT dimensions with an understructure of 2 x 4s and a bottom shelf of MDF. I put peg board on one ends and the back and a piece of 3/4" MDF on one side so that I could drill and mount dowels to hang my blades.
I drilled out the pattern of 3/4" holes and I was hoping for near CNC accuracy, but I fell a little short.
Method:
- I cut the top to size.
- I cut a piece of peg board to the exact same size.
- I marked the holes I wanted to drill on the peg board. (I went 4" on center)
- I used a 5mm Vix bit to make the centers for the holes.
- I used a 3/4" auger bit with screw point.
- I made a jig by stacking two pieces of 3/4" plywood and drilling a 1" hole and inserting a 3/4" bushing.
- Then I drilled for close to 2 hours.
The Wood Owl bit (from Amazon) is made in Japan and stayed sharp for the 44 holes. The screw point was very aggressive and I had to back up the holes with masonite supported over air or the screw point would dig in deeply. The same company makes a brad point and that with a smaller Vix bit might have been a better choice.
I drilled 43 perfect holes. I failed to go all the way through with one hole and the restart was sloppy, but the hole is 5/8" good and true.
So how accurate was I? I put in two 3/4" dowels at the furthest reaches and pushed a straight edge against the dowels. A couple of holes were off by about 1/64th of an inch. Pretty good, but it would mean that if I wanted to mount a straight piece with two dowels both dowels might not align. For single dowel bench dogs, it is fine.
My Festool clamps work with the holes. I fish the skinny end through and I can down clamp it.
Was the hole drilling worthwhile? It is certainly cheaper than buying a Festool top. And it will make the clamps more usable. It added about $40.00 for the bit and bushing. But both are usable in the future.
If you do the same, make an extra holder for the bushing. After about 30 holes it loosened up and I had to put a couple of pieces of paper in the hole to make it tight again. A second holder would have been nice.
With the three end panels and the top and the bottom shelf screwed in place it is as solid as if it were hewn from a piece of billet (and nearly as heavy).
I have another space with saw horses and a panel that I will replace with a similar table (or maybe two just as I have made here, but with the bottom shelf low enough to fit the Systainer that came with the Festool saw).
RE: Kick back question - Stwood_ - 04-23-2018
Sounds good............
RE: Kick back question - Pirate - 04-24-2018
For fence alignment, I just use my combination square.
In miter slot before blade, just touching fence.
Move past blade, and if there is just a "hair" of space between rule and fence your good.
No splitter, just good pusher, attention, and common sense.
Leg operated off switch, in case I see kerf closing. Sharp blade is also a safety factor.
RE: Kick back question - Cooler - 04-25-2018
(04-24-2018, 10:28 PM)Pirate Wrote: For fence alignment, I just use my combination square.
In miter slot before blade, just touching fence.
Move past blade, and if there is just a "hair" of space between rule and fence your good.
No splitter, just good pusher, attention, and common sense.
Leg operated off switch, in case I see kerf closing. Sharp blade is also a safety factor.
I do not rip much stock. I do make long cuts on 3/4" plywood though. Will the plywood close the kerf also?
RE: Kick back question - Rob Young - 04-25-2018
(04-25-2018, 07:39 AM)Cooler Wrote: I do not rip much stock. I do make long cuts on 3/4" plywood though. Will the plywood close the kerf also?
I've not seen plywood close on the back of the blade but I have seen plywood "fall" into the blade because it was being cut with the concave (bow) down to the table. I suppose it is possible for a really wonky bit of plywood to do just about anything a wonky 2x4 could do around the blade & splitter.