(05-12-2020, 11:59 AM)joe1086 Wrote: I'm an amateur but have done a fair amount of tiling, especially in the last year or two. Larger format tiles require a flat substrate. Floor, walls need to be FLAT and if they aren't, fix them. Tiles need to be flat too, so check them especially if you are going with narrower grout lines. I was able to get rectified tiles (where they grind the tiles after firing to ensure accurate dimensions). Generally I find it more challenging to work with the larger formats. Mine were 12 x 24 on the walls and 12 x 12 on the floor, not as large as the 24x24 you are considering. Check out the tile leveling systems, ceramic tiles can flex a bit and for me made an improvement in the finished product.

As to the trends....who really knows.

(05-12-2020, 02:15 PM)jamesglenn Wrote: I would suggest you research the Laticrete website a little. Large format tiles are currently in trend, but they are much more difficult to lay; especially on walls. They require certain mastics to hold them in place due to their weight and size.

As others have noted, they require level (smooth) sub-surfaces or they will not fit flush. You cannot just add more mortar underneath, especially to walls or it creates another set of problems. I've seen a lot of issues and made more than a few contractors remove everything back down to studs and start over. 

They tiles look great, just take time and precision.

(05-12-2020, 03:54 PM)Cooler Wrote: I have time; the precision might be an issue.  I used tile spacers for the precision part on the first job.   And a level to make sure there was no "lippage". 

I have since bought spacers that solve the lippage issue. 

I may use smaller tiles for the walls and larger ones on the floor.  My tile cutter is limited to 24" and I hate using the wet saw.  Too messy, too slow.

(05-13-2020, 12:08 PM)jamesglenn Wrote: I reread my post, and I don't mean to discourage or under estimate your abilities. This is fresh on my mind, as I just went thru a seminar about setting large format tiles and the issues associated.

As noted, I highly recommend Laticrete products which are numerous and something for each specific install and condition. I specify them on every project and have had success, so far.

• I can offer a few suggestions.
  
• Make sure the wall is as flat. If you need to, staple cardboard shims (not corrugated) made for that purpose, to the studs before the concrete board goes up.
  
• Invest in a leveling system. there's a few different types out there but consider those that use pliers to cinch the wedges in, and have good reviews of breaking off clean. They also ensure the tile doesn't fall off the wall when you turn you back!
  
•  Back-butter your tiles and pull a few back off to check for coverage at the beginning.
  
• That gap at the tub should be packed with G.E. silicone then cut flush when it's fully cured. Don't wipe it with your finger; the thin film left behind will curse you throughout the project.
  
• If your putting in an accent stripe, just use full length strips of 3/8" plywood as a spacer and finish the field. the accent is never the same thickness as the tiles. I made a quick jig to keep a bed coat the right depth from the tile face so I could use a smaller notched trowel to set the accents.
  
• Work neat! Using a grout saw to cut out thin-set that could have been wiped out yesterday sucks.
  

(05-18-2020, 11:55 PM)MstrCarpenter Wrote:

• I can offer a few suggestions.
  
• Make sure the wall is as flat. If you need to, staple cardboard shims (not corrugated) made for that purpose, to the studs before the concrete board goes up.
  
• Invest in a leveling system. there's a few different types out there but consider those that use pliers to cinch the wedges in, and have good reviews of breaking off clean. They also ensure the tile doesn't fall off the wall when you turn you back!
  
•  Back-butter your tiles and pull a few back off to check for coverage at the beginning.
  
• That gap at the tub should be packed with G.E. silicone then cut flush when it's fully cured. Don't wipe it with your finger; the thin film left behind will curse you throughout the project.
  
• If your putting in an accent stripe, just use full length strips of 3/8" plywood as a spacer and finish the field. the accent is never the same thickness as the tiles. I made a quick jig to keep a bed coat the right depth from the tile face so I could use a smaller notched trowel to set the accents.
  
• Work neat! Using a grout saw to cut out thin-set that could have been wiped out yesterday sucks.