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Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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(10-25-2016, 06:43 PM)Steve N Wrote: Shhhhhhhhhhhh if you're not careful they will figure out SPF, then the jig will truly be up
If you can't see or smell the difference between hardwood and softwood, I suppose you're not going to know juvenile wood from sap as you see the annual rings. As before,
caveat emptor.
SPF is stamped, graded, and even construction lumber is LIGHTLY killed. That's the S-Dry stamp you see. 15-20% MC is what it means.
You want yard-graded lumber, kiln-dried (8%) and resin-set? Pay for it. You want furring or lath, buy "whitewood."
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Location: Oklahoma
Even though I call it junk wood, I've used a lot of it with success.
First, I choose carefully. Check the bin every time I go--when they get a good lot in, stock up. 1x6 usually looks a lot better than 1x4. Sometimes I find a birds eye pattern with chatoyance that rivals maple.
Second, I let it sit. Because I stock up instead of buying as needed, the board I use may have air drying another 6 months or more.
Carolyn
Trip Blog for Twelve Countries: [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]
"It's good to know, but it's better to understand." Auze Jackson
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10-26-2016, 03:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-26-2016, 04:53 PM by Steve N.)
Carolyn I spilled my secret early on in this thread. Everyone's region will likely differ, but in Ohio taking home selected straight framing stock, if I get it nailed, screwed, or glued together in 5 days or less I beat the warp 95% of the time. If you buy this week because it's on sale, and plan to use it in 3 weeks, well I'm not sure about Ok, but in Oh you will have pretzels.
I should add if I can't get to it, I've been known to stack it as flat, and straight as I can, and screw it together. Or if there is a lot, stack it flat, and go to Harbor Fright and buy one of their banding rigs, and a box of banding.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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According to Wiki it is the wood from a spruce tree. Some sort of pine wood.
I bought some 6" x 6' x 3/4" white wood from Home Depot about 15 years back. It was tight grained and free of knots. It was smooth and straight.
I used it to make the pull outs for my kitchen.
I made blind dovetails for the pullouts and it machined easily. And cut dadoes for the rear and that machined easily. It sanded smooth and took an excellent cost of clear. Back then I was using brushing lacquer and I'm sure that I used that.
After 15 years of daily use I can say that the boards have stood up well. I see no warping, the finish has held up well and the glued dovetails have too.
It was much cheaper than the pine that was offered at that time and had a tighter grain. It was knot free and of a very uniform color (nearly white). I'd use it again if I found it cheap. I would take it over pine for drawer boxes; I would consider it equal to poplar for drawer boxes. My experience has been positive.
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