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Just to add on, usually I keep a few angles on hand, a 45, a 90, and I have made dado's to different widths. Once I started using ZCI's I got hooked, and it's a very rare cut where I use a factory insert. It's safer, and your cut quality will go way up due to the extra support under the cut. It's like using blue tape on a cut to keep from splintering. If you are ever cutting thin strips, and one falls into that huge crack on a factory insert, and comes back to smack you. Just know a ZCI will stop that before it could start, no where to drop into.
When I cut them out on the TS I make 2 cuts with the smaller blade. First is at the exact angle I want, then right next to it, and jusstttttt off the angle I make a 90*. This cuts out a small wedge so when you put the 10" full kerf on, it fits, and also gives wiggle room to move the blade easily. If you ever buy a factory made one, you will often see that wedge I am talking about. Some people also use a router to cut a NON through slot about 1/2" wide, at the place where the saw will project through. On some saws that will allow you to use a 10" blade to make the through cut.
You can also make a ZCI for your chop saw, and it is much safer, and makes a cleaner cut than that huge opening on a factory plate. As with the TS on angles, you can also make ZCI's on compound angle cuts. Those are much easier to cut through, as your 10" blade is always higher than table top height to start. Using a marker you can mark the angles on them after you cut them so reuse is a snap.
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(10-27-2016, 06:12 AM)JGrout Wrote: I also should mention that if you only want one insert for several angles you can do it although the slot will be slightly wider each time you change the angle rendering it not quite a ZCI after each cut. this is not so much a detriment as the factory plate in the saw is.
Joe
(10-27-2016, 09:04 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: Aram, the best way to do it is have a few plates for different angle ranges. You don't need a different plate for every angle. This has worked for me. Problem trying to use one plate is too wide of an angle range will thin out the material around the slot. IOW use one plate for 10-20 degree, 20-30, etc.
I do it the way Mathias showed in the video. This is not a zero clearance insert, but a near zero clearance insert. For ripping, that is fine.
I have not tried a smaller range of angles, but it makes sense.
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I have made several coopered tops and doors too. I only used one angle.The ones I made were a gentle arc, is your top an ellipse? I get the angle by making a partial full scale drawing of the arc,then draw two squared end pieces and measure the divided angle. Gets me very close. Best to make the top then you have the dimensions for the box,if this is practical.On coopered doors I often have to adjust the angles slightly on a jointer .
mike
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(10-30-2016, 03:08 PM)mike4244 Wrote: I have made several coopered tops and doors too. I only used one angle.The ones I made were a gentle arc, is your top an ellipse? I get the angle by making a partial full scale drawing of the arc,then draw two squared end pieces and measure the divided angle. Gets me very close. Best to make the top then you have the dimensions for the box,if this is practical.On coopered doors I often have to adjust the angles slightly on a jointer .
mike
The top has a gentle curve in the middle and arcs in harder at the edges. It's not an ellipse or any other specific geometry, just the outcome of some doodling i was happy with.
I messed around with some drawings, and it looks like I can get away with two, maybe even one angle cut. And I might hand plane one of them.
Thanks for the feedback!
Best,
Aram, always learning
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You might get away with leaving the angles all the same, but varying the width of the staves.
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Being able to cut a ZCI for an angle depends a lot upon the saw. My Craftsman Zipcode saw (can't remember the dang model number off hand) doesn't tilt the blade raising mechanism when you tilt the blade. The blade is tilted, but it raises straight up & down just the same.
I could probably cut one by titling the blade then running the insert blank though the blade like it were a board & stopping short of the full through cut, but I don't want to think about that cut. Gives me the hebbee jeebees.
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Saw this at LJ's when they had me locked out here, simple to make looks like. Joe is this like yours?
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GW
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The only angled zci's I keep on hand are 90, 45, 30, & 15.
Not sure how often you will need to change the angle of the blade or what angles you need
but if it were me and I had to change the angle often and I didn't NEED a zci for it
I would probably just use my stock plate so I wouldn't have to change out the zci so often -
plus it would save me the time of having to make a bunch of new ones with weird angles just for one project.
Again that's if I didn't need a zci for the project.
If the cut-offs become a binding issue and there's a lot to do, then I would be more inclined to make the zci's
Ray
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