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01-13-2018, 10:33 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-13-2018, 10:46 AM by rwe2156.)
This is a standard technique for "cheating" on drawerfronts to imitate 1/2 blinds.
Veneer a little thick. I typically go 1/8".
For bookmatching shoot the edges with a hand plane. Alternate faces down to cancel out any angle error. Tape seams together and glue. There are videos you can watch about this.
To attach veneer, clamp using a caul covered in packing tape.
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(01-13-2018, 09:54 AM)sawnuts Wrote: Is it OK to leave the glued side slightly rough? This may help with glue creep possibly. I recall that " in the day" panels were flattened with a toothing plane then glued
Am I wrong?
Mark
That technique was used with hot hide glue. I don't really know why, but I do know that hide glue is both gap filling and rigid. Modern glues aren't gap filling with the exception of epoxy. Many aren't rigid either, like Titebond. Lots of folks glue down shop sawn veneer straight off their bandsaw and report good results. I sand both sides smooth.
With no drum sander or bandsaw I would book match thicker stock, glue those pieces together, then glue a planed face to the drawer face. After the glue had dried, I would "resaw" it on my TS, half way through, then flip it over and do the other half. You should be able to handle a drawer front at least 6" wide that way.
John
