Furnace leaking condensate
#15
(03-02-2021, 12:58 PM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: I have, no problems. I checked Amazon 1st but they don't sell it. I'd probably take it off and epoxy it until the new one arrives.

I ordered from Supplyhouse.com.  I ordered just before their published ordering cutoff hours on Friday (4 p.m.).  I used regular standard shipping, which cost $4.95.  The order arrived this morning, 42 hours after ordering.  

Delivered on Sunday, no less, for under $5.
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#16
(03-07-2021, 11:47 AM)WxMan Wrote: I ordered from Supplyhouse.com.  I ordered just before their published ordering cutoff hours on Friday (4 p.m.).  I used regular standard shipping, which cost $4.95.  The order arrived this morning, 42 hours after ordering.  

Delivered on Sunday, no less, for under $5.

I've ordered a few things from them. Reasonable pricing and shipping. Especially because I usually need it pretty quickly.. price isn't the motivating factor. 

When I moved the laundry room from the basement to the top floor, I was concerned about leaking. They have a wall valve set for a washer with an auto shutoff valves with leak detection. 10 days if I ordered it through HD, 2 days through Supplyhouse and cheaper. I've also orderd some oddball Pex through them. They're handy
Neil Summers Home Inspections




" What would Fred do?"

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#17
(03-07-2021, 11:47 AM)WxMan Wrote: I ordered from Supplyhouse.com.  I ordered just before their published ordering cutoff hours on Friday (4 p.m.).  I used regular standard shipping, which cost $4.95.  The order arrived this morning, 42 hours after ordering.  

Delivered on Sunday, no less, for under $5.

I've also ordered a few things from them, right now have a replacement start capacitor for my DC coming. Ordered yesterday and got an email from Fedex it will be here today. Great service and as mentioned the shipping is only $5. Their prices are great as well. I bought this same cap from a local motor shop and he charged me $20, from supplyhouse it was $7.50. (plus the shipping) and I didn't have to drive 18 miles to the motor shop.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
OK, so now I'm getting into this fix.  Problem was more widespread than just the factory OEM part that was cracked.

Closer inspection of the broken drain trap showed that it cracked from the bottom up.  This tells me that there was excess upward pressure on the assembly.

   

I had to cut away the old drain trap assembly to get it off.  Once I did that, I noted that the Schedule 40 PVC pipe was effectively dangling.  In fact, it fell apart as I shifted it just a bit.  It broke away from the condensate drain outlet on the upper unit (circled in red), and I also found that it was not attached at the floor level, either.  There's no evidence, at all, of any PVC cement at that joint (also circled in red.)

   

If you look closely, you can see the bend at the coupling on the vertical PVC pipe.  Instead of cutting the pipe to the correct length, I think this is indicative of how Hanz and Franz just jammed this together, eventually leading to the failure at the joints.  This discovery led me to trip number two back into town to Menards to get more PVC fittings.  It would have been nice to have a small stock of the necessary fittings, but I don't keep a lot of 3/4" PVC fittings because I don't have much of it installed.

I'll install a new PVC condensate drain from the heat pump and the aux furnace (lower unit).  I will also install union couplings that will allow me to easily clean this setup, should it ever be necessary.
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