diamond abrasive lapping fluid

[AHill]

Personally I don't use easy off oven cleaner because I don't like the strong smell, but there is no proof to the claim that it will do harm to a saw blade if it is used. But it is passed on as fact. Even a half truth is false information.  

This test proves your point.  No damage to the blade, carbide tips, or solder.  But it does remove paint and the plastic coatings on some blades.

https://carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-...eaner.html

[Timberwolf]

This reminds me of something my chemistry teacher told me years ago:

Most people don't really understand chemistry. We can't put F's on all their report cards , but they really don't get it.

Some people use their cars their cell phones and watch TV, go to the doctor for an MRI or an EKG or for drugs, and they say scientists don't know anything.

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I agree...they know what they have learned, but they don't get to build their own rockets until they have proved themselves. And they have to stay current because science is always evolving.

[Timberwolf]

This test proves your point.  No damage to the blade, carbide tips, or solder.  But it does remove paint and the plastic coatings on some blades.

https://carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-...eaner.html

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Allan, I have tried removing swarf from diamond lap plates with one of those gum rubber erasers used on sandpaper and it works pretty well if no liquid was used in the honing process..This was on the Worksharp, but will also work on rectangular hones.

I have bought my last diamond hone tho...the lapping plates sold by Amazon have won their wings with me..used stationary {like hones} they are by far the biggest bang for the buck, with a lot more diamond area than most flat hones.

[tablesawtom]

I would like to thank Ahill for clarifying some of the things he wrote.  The post was about water soluble lapping fluid. Not about using  Kerosene WD40 and I would never thought of Windex and some of the other products listed. I am sorry If I misunderstood Ahill about Windex with Ammonia in as a no no. But it rubs me the wrong way when things are passed on as truth when there is nothing to support the information. And why even  bring it up because the post is not about that at all. It is about water based coolant, to use or not to use and how I got around using a product by using a different product( heat gun/hair dryer.)

I am sorry if I have been a little hard on some of the comments, But I think a conversation should stay on the tent. not taken out of context. So please except my apologies

Tom.

[AHill]

I would like to thank Ahill for clarifying some of the things he wrote.  The post was about water soluble lapping fluid. Not about using  Kerosene WD40 and I would never thought of Windex and some of the other products listed. I am sorry If I misunderstood Ahill about Windex with Ammonia in as a no no. But it rubs me the wrong way when things are passed on as truth when there is nothing to support the information. And why even  bring it up because the post is not about that at all. It is about water based coolant, to use or not to use and how I got around using a product by using a different product( heat gun/hair dryer.)

I am sorry if I have been a little hard on some of the comments, But I think a conversation should stay on the tent. not taken out of context. So please except my apologies

Tom.

Apology accepted, and forgive me for sending the thread down a rabbit hole.  My original intent was to add more content to the thread, letting the woodworking community know there was more out there than just the water soluble coolant-based lapping fluid you cited.  I should have clarified from the beginning.  I didn't think it was going to be so controversial.  As it stands now, I'm using just plain water.  No dishwashing soap.  No oils.  No window cleaning stuff.

[tablesawtom]

I use a 300-1000 grit diamond stone for flattening the backs of plane irons and chisels. I do not remember why I even thought of using water on the  diamond plate. Also I never considered adding soap as a lubricant because it leave s scum residue when dry. Also to my way of thinking, anything that helps something slide over a surface would also slow the cutting ability of the stone. A little humor here, soap in not good for your skin just watch the commercials. Also my wife has problems with certain cleaning products so it is I who cleans the shower. I know al about scum residue.

Now, the main reason of the diamond stone  for me is to flatten my water stones. I believe I saw Rob Cosmand do it.  I like to clean the stone before  I switch to a different stone. I, for example, I do not want to contaminate the 3000 grit stone with 1000 grit partials. And every thing I have written  is about residual build up left over from the lubricant or coolant. 

Marketing media would have a newbe believe that he has to buy the diamond abrasive lapping fluid also or his plate will rust. Is getting the fluid a good idea? It sounds so good I almost went for it. If it is premixed, than it is awful expensive.  If a concentrated  then my guess that the bottle it comes in is more costly than the concentrate. Outstanding profit margin.

If you are a beginner or considering purchasing a GOOD diamond plate for the first time, I hope this post has been beneficial to you.

Tom

[Timberwolf]

I use a 300-1000 grit diamond stone for flattening the backs of plane irons and chisels. I do not remember why I even thought of using water on the  diamond plate. Also I never considered adding soap as a lubricant because it leave s scum residue when dry. Also to my way of thinking, anything that helps something slide over a surface would also slow the cutting ability of the stone. A little humor here, soap in not good for your skin just watch the commercials. Also my wife has problems with certain cleaning products so it is I who cleans the shower. I know al about scum residue.

Now, the main reason of the diamond stone  for me is to flatten my water stones. I believe I saw Rob Cosmand do it.  I like to clean the stone before  I switch to a different stone. I, for example, I do not want to contaminate the 3000 grit stone with 1000 grit partials. And every thing I have written  is about residual build up left over from the lubricant or coolant. 

Marketing media would have a newbe believe that he has to buy the diamond abrasive lapping fluid also or his plate will rust. Is getting the fluid a good idea? It sounds so good I almost went for it. If it is premixed, than it is awful expensive.  If a concentrated  then my guess that the bottle it comes in is more costly than the concentrate. Outstanding profit margin.

If you are a beginner or considering purchasing a GOOD diamond plate for the first time, I hope this post has been beneficial to you.

Tom

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Also to my way of thinking, anything that helps something slide over a surface would also slow the cutting ability of the stone

You and I know that Reducing the friction would be like applying asphalt over a gravel road. Reduce the friction and you reduce the stone's cutting ability... "lubrication" on a stone is never a good thing..The whole idea is to float the swarf to prevent it filling the pores, and thereby reducing the hone's cutting ability. You can really destroy a stones cutting ability by filling the pores with beeswax.


I guess wax would make an India stone cut like a hard Arkansas.

[AHill]

I use a 300-1000 grit diamond stone for flattening the backs of plane irons and chisels. I do not remember why I even thought of using water on the  diamond plate. Also I never considered adding soap as a lubricant because it leave s scum residue when dry. Also to my way of thinking, anything that helps something slide over a surface would also slow the cutting ability of the stone. A little humor here, soap in not good for your skin just watch the commercials. Also my wife has problems with certain cleaning products so it is I who cleans the shower. I know al about scum residue.

Now, the main reason of the diamond stone  for me is to flatten my water stones. I believe I saw Rob Cosmand do it.  I like to clean the stone before  I switch to a different stone. I, for example, I do not want to contaminate the 3000 grit stone with 1000 grit partials. And every thing I have written  is about residual build up left over from the lubricant or coolant. 

Marketing media would have a newbe believe that he has to buy the diamond abrasive lapping fluid also or his plate will rust. Is getting the fluid a good idea? It sounds so good I almost went for it. If it is premixed, than it is awful expensive.  If a concentrated  then my guess that the bottle it comes in is more costly than the concentrate. Outstanding profit margin.

If you are a beginner or considering purchasing a GOOD diamond plate for the first time, I hope this post has been beneficial to you.

Tom

I too, use a diamond stone to flatten my waterstones.  I will generally wait until I'm done sharpening, then flatten the highest (finest) grit stone first, then without rinsing the diamond stone, proceed through the waterstones from finest to coarsest grit.  Saves time and prevents cross contamination.  I do rinse each waterstone before I proceed to the coarsest stone.