Handcut DT ?
#47
I deliberately cut my dovetail asymmetrically (differing spacing) if they are on a drawer front (half blinds). I space the dovetails closer together near the top and bottom of the drawer, and further apart nearer the center. Two reasons for this: 1 - corners likely to have greater stress, and 2 - I like the look. I also usually cut an odd number (3,5,7) dovetails on each corner for the aesthetics of symmetry above/below the center of drawer height. There is no standard that I know of for this, but this is what I was taught at woodworking school. College of the Redwoods Fine Woodworking School.
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#48
I am not a fan of contemporary furniture, but that is pretty bad azz Derek. I like......
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#49
Thanks Steve. 

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#50
I was redoing some Shaker style built in cupboards with drawers, wanted to use DT's for them.  I had never done any before, no bench but did have saw horses.  I practiced on scrap wood using a pull saw from Lowe's.  The ones in the back are widely spaced, more even in the front.  I have a cover board in front to help alignment, ie, not half blind.  Are these "Derek Quality"?  Not at all, but not bad for a rookie.  After 14 years of daily use, no problems.  I found that even bad DT's are really strong.   Good luck..
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#51
(02-18-2017, 06:58 PM)Aram Wrote: I haven't, but there's a detailed article in PWW #203, April 2013, starting on page 32.

Aram,

Thanks a bunch, I reviewed and it looks like a very helpful article.

honda
Yes
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#52
For drawers, I eyeball them.

For a carcase I shoot for symmetry.
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