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personally i wouldnt touch it. I learned my lesson with water based finishes, & trust me when I tell you, you are lookin' at 3 weeks MINIMUM for cure time. I don't use anything but oil based finishes just for that reason. And as far as your rub out, I used Johnsons paste wax on the water base & had good luck. jmo.
Sawdust703
head sawdust maker
Posts: 3,859
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Joined: Nov 2000
Water BOURNE
You've got a water Bourne finish, not water based.
I think your solution is not going to come after you've applied your final coat, but before you have done so. I'd ask some paint chemists I know about how to dope the mix for flow characteristics. I'd address the problem of nits that way. Material that flows out without nits doesn't need to be rubbed. Some of the suggestions above create problems of their own. If you use automotive body polishing compound, your finish could "glow" locally.
You're using a waterbourne coalescing finish. That's the very first thing you must know, and not forget. You will need to acquire a variety of problem solving chemical solutions for the different types of problems you're seeking to address. Be prepared to get ideas that cannot be used in every single case. You might learn for example: dope with XYZ chemical to assist in lower temperature enviorments, but don't use XYZ when it is hot.
Learning finishing is a skill. There isn't really a one size fits all "Your finish needs in a can." Sure, the stuff comes in cans, but it takes skill to know which one, where, when, and for what purpose. I can't really help you with the waterbourne coalescing stuff, I'm a dinosaur from the days of nitrocellulose. (Evaporative) I'm going to have to adapt because my state forbids nitrocellulose.
