Bill,
Thirty one rough turned bowls is a lot of work. I'm retired and have only rough turned 16 over a couple of days. I assume you fully coated with Anchorseal. As a test, you might try another coat of Anchorseal on the outside end grain only of a few bowl blanks, just so they don't wonder-off the same time as the rest. My experience has been that once a green/wet Sycamore bowl is rough turned to a uniform thickness and it wasn't next to a knot or limb, cracks are not much of a problem. Its the movement or distortion that is the problem. If you have to final turn before they are dry, don't spend time sanding over 120. As Reed/Robo said, you will have to start over with 80 when they are dry. As a side note, I tried stretch wrap on the outside and had a problem with mold under the stretch wrap. I experienced mold problems also with only coating the outside end grain.
Joe
Rough turned about 20 Ash bowls and 6 platters over the last few days. Ash is much friendlier.
Thirty one rough turned bowls is a lot of work. I'm retired and have only rough turned 16 over a couple of days. I assume you fully coated with Anchorseal. As a test, you might try another coat of Anchorseal on the outside end grain only of a few bowl blanks, just so they don't wonder-off the same time as the rest. My experience has been that once a green/wet Sycamore bowl is rough turned to a uniform thickness and it wasn't next to a knot or limb, cracks are not much of a problem. Its the movement or distortion that is the problem. If you have to final turn before they are dry, don't spend time sanding over 120. As Reed/Robo said, you will have to start over with 80 when they are dry. As a side note, I tried stretch wrap on the outside and had a problem with mold under the stretch wrap. I experienced mold problems also with only coating the outside end grain.
Joe
Rough turned about 20 Ash bowls and 6 platters over the last few days. Ash is much friendlier.