12-27-2019, 08:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-27-2019, 08:17 PM by Snipe Hunter.)
I should have said the door must meet fire code requirements although most in new homes have a 20 minute fire spread rating and self closing hinges. Around here, the door needs to have the compliance sticker and self closing hinges. No door from a garage can enter int a bedroom. It really depends on the municipality.
"Other openings between the garage and the residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) in thickness, solid- or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors." If it is a fire rated foor, it needs self closing hinges to maintain its rating.
As to the question about the 1st nail. It provides a point of reference and holds the sill/threshold from moving too much and the assembly won't move from that spot. It only goes in when the opening is known to be plumb. The brick mold may have to be bumped out a bit prior to nailing to achieve a plumb jamb if the wall isn't plumb. And it might need to be shimmied in or out a little if the opening isn't square. You want to make sure you have wiggle room from top to bottom of the jamb sides before nailing it. If you have a helper holding the door in place (I rarely do), you could skip the nail. I've also been known to nail in a piece of shim stock on the inside of the upper cross piece of the jamb where the shim stock overlaps the interior wall. I can turn the shim stock to hold the door closed too. It's like having a third hand or a helper who doesn't take brakes or argue.
Doors/jambs move, particularly when shimming. The nail helps stabilize the assembly making it easier to control. I do know a guy who puts the nail in the top... we argue about it. My argument is that if the sill is sitting on floor and the nail is at the top, you can't move the assembly without distorting ( bowing) the jamb or loosing the connection or damaging the caulk between the sill and the floor. I don't know his argument, I don't listen to him much. But, he has a good eye and his work is good. My way works in my brain and it's how I was taught.
"Other openings between the garage and the residence shall be equipped with solid wood doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) in thickness, solid- or honeycomb-core steel doors not less than 1-3/8” (35 mm) thick, or 20-minute fire-rated doors." If it is a fire rated foor, it needs self closing hinges to maintain its rating.
As to the question about the 1st nail. It provides a point of reference and holds the sill/threshold from moving too much and the assembly won't move from that spot. It only goes in when the opening is known to be plumb. The brick mold may have to be bumped out a bit prior to nailing to achieve a plumb jamb if the wall isn't plumb. And it might need to be shimmied in or out a little if the opening isn't square. You want to make sure you have wiggle room from top to bottom of the jamb sides before nailing it. If you have a helper holding the door in place (I rarely do), you could skip the nail. I've also been known to nail in a piece of shim stock on the inside of the upper cross piece of the jamb where the shim stock overlaps the interior wall. I can turn the shim stock to hold the door closed too. It's like having a third hand or a helper who doesn't take brakes or argue.
Doors/jambs move, particularly when shimming. The nail helps stabilize the assembly making it easier to control. I do know a guy who puts the nail in the top... we argue about it. My argument is that if the sill is sitting on floor and the nail is at the top, you can't move the assembly without distorting ( bowing) the jamb or loosing the connection or damaging the caulk between the sill and the floor. I don't know his argument, I don't listen to him much. But, he has a good eye and his work is good. My way works in my brain and it's how I was taught.
