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I was watching a repeat of T.O.H. today and I saw the Finish Carpenter/Cabinetmaker use a jig to drill the 35mm (1 3/8") hole for the cup with a cordless drill perfectly. I have not seen this jig before, and haven't been able to find it with Google. The jig has two parts; The part you hold on the door, the base, is about 6" square with a 4" (or so) ring about an inch tall. It also has an edge guide and center index marks. The part with the bit has a ring that fits inside the ring on the base. The bit may have to be part of the jig because it slides in a bushing keeping it 90* to the door. There is also a depth stop and a spring to push the guide back out.
This is a tool that would make choosing the advantages of European Hinges over semi-concealed or butt hinges a lot more user friendly in the field. I would definitely like to have one in my bag of tricks.
If anyone has, or knows of this jig could you please post a link, picture, review, ect.?
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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CMT has a cool hinge boring jig
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RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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Seen the Sommerfield or the Blum (Sommefrield may have copied Blum) Easy Hinge Boring Jig?
http://sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfeld-s-...boring-jig
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
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Wow! That was fast. The Rockler jig uses the same concept as the one on T.O.H. but I don't think the clamp on feature they added will be of much benefit to me. I also just viewed their similar jig; minus the base and spring. At $16, I would have bought one years ago. I've made quick jigs that reference the edge, and top or bottom of the door to locate all three holes but messing with a block of wood for a depth stop was frustrating for a few pairs of hinges.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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[blockquote]BloomingtonMike said:
Seen the Sommerfield or the Blum (Sommefrield may have copied Blum) Easy Hinge Boring Jig?
So I just checked out the one Mike linked to. So now I'm at $16 for an easier depth stop. $60 for a jig that does one hole . Or $180 for a jig that does all three (if I have the hinges that use the 8mm holes). I'm leaning towards option #2, but if it's cheap plastic that won't survive being slightly abused while in transit (i.e. a 20 pound router riding on it in the van) it will be a waste of time and money.
You Guys have no problem spending other Woodnetters money.
Has anyone seen one like Rocklers made of steel?
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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web page This is an option.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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Do you often cut holes for hinges in the field?
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
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MstrCarpenter said:
So I just checked out the one Mike linked to. So now I'm at $16 for an easier depth stop. $60 for a jig that does one hole . Or $180 for a jig that does all three (if I have the hinges that use the 8mm holes). I'm leaning towards option #2, but if it's cheap plastic that won't survive being slightly abused while in transit (i.e. a 20 pound router riding on it in the van) it will be a waste of time and money.
You Guys have no problem spending other Woodnetters money.
Oh wait but there's more. Don't forget the Festool option. The LR32 which does both the shelf pins and hinges. For a mere $495. Plus $100 for the holey guide rail and $400-$500 for the router. Only works with their router.
Of course only an person would pay that much.
<--- I own all 3 items
http://www.amazon.com/Festool-584100-Hol...B0058HVVPIhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSTQlFKtP4ohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2gQVWADWq4
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BloomingtonMike said:
Do you often cut holes for hinges in the field?
Currently, only a couple times a year, but If I invested in an accurate and efficient jig, I think it would be a lot more. For built-ins, I usually make doors and face frames in the shop and drill for hinges with a drill press. There are times that they don't get drilled, and a few times they were drilled in the wrong place (Sometimes due to field conditions and sometimes just operator error.) The holes get drilled after finishing, and there's usually at least some finishing done in the field. So drilling in the field just prior to installing the hinges would eliminate a step in the shop between finishing and packaging.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"