Best way to cut 1/16 off a finished shelf

[Yetloh]

5thumbs said:

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I'm surprised nobody has suggested a shooting board. This not only lets you control the amount you remove (down to several thousands), it also gives you an edge that is square to the face of the shelf. Takes a bit longer than a table or miter saw, but gives you more control.

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Amen to that, and a much more enjoyable and satisfying process - no dust, no machine noise, minimal set-up. What's not to like?

Jim

[John Mihich]

A few years ago I wouldn't have thought of a plane; I would have used the TS. It's a good idea to get yourself a plane now. An antique store would be a place to find one where you can get one cheap and learn how to rebuild and sharpen one.

If you don't have a plane. The finish will help reducing chip out. If you get any a quick touch up with stain will hide it. No need to get anal - no one will see the small chips. No need to put finish on the newly stained chipouts.

1. mark the cut line with a sharp knife; make sure you go through the top layers. At least on the side that will be seen.
2. Lay tape on the edge
3. Use most teeth per inch blade you have.
4. Use a sled if you have one.

[arthropod98]

ok, so that rockler bit set is pretty clever.

[TomFromStLouis]

+2 on the hand plane idea.

I am simply amazed at the number of woodworkers here that have failed to discover the speed accuracy and joy of hand tools.

[John Mihich]

I came over to the dark side a few years ago. Not that I use them a lot but I sure have found them necessary. There are times 1/32 to take off and a plane is just the right way instead of a sander. Same thing about scrapers - love using them; much less dangerous than sanders; more control.

[Cooler]

I had the same issue just recently and I trimmed it with a radial arm saw. A table saw will work too. Make sure your good side is up on a table saw and down on a radial arm saw to minimize chipping.

[AHill]

5thumbs said:

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I'm surprised nobody has suggested a shooting board. This not only lets you control the amount you remove (down to several thousands), it also gives you an edge that is square to the face of the shelf. Takes a bit longer than a table or miter saw, but gives you more control.

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I wouldn't use a shooting board with ply. Hard on the blade, and it would take quite a bit of time to knock off 1/16". If you're taking 0.002" off each pass with a shooting board, that's 31+ strokes per shelf. Good exercise, but ply doesn't behave well with a hand plane. TS with a ZCI and a crosscut sled would be my choice. If you can find someone with a Festool track saw, that would work as well.

[Richard D.]

Unless you have been persuaded by the suggestions to buy an $800 Festool saw to cut the end of your plywood shelf (hand planes are a bad idea here) your chop saw or table saw with sled or miter gauge will work fine.

[FS7]

Sick Puppy said:

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I am in the process of finishing a bookcase. The shelves are all made, stained and finished (Water based poly). I need to trim about 1/16 off of the side of the shelf so that it will fit perfectly. What is the best way to do that? Table saw? Jointer? The shelf is 14" deep, made of plywood with a 1" thick solid maple face.

Thanks

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You should have no problem using a table saw to do this. Since there is plywood involved (and you're not cutting with the grain), I would first take a very light pass (maybe 1/64" or so) to just score the veneer on both sides. A through cut will take care of the rest with zero chipout, no tape or ZCI necessary.

This is the only method that works for me to crosscut dadoes in plywood on the table saw and it works every time. Zero clearance throat plates are handy, and simple tape works OK too, but this method is flawless.