Sanding disc holders.

[Steve K]

Thanks for the warning it says "Requires about 90 PSI and 3-4 CFM." I have a 60 gal 2-stage IR that meets the requirements but now I'm wondering about the noise vs my HF right angle drill.

Do the ROS's give a better finish than a rotary drill?

Mike

IMO, it's head and shoulders better. The pattern is random and so it's harder to pick out sanding marks. With that said, to me the biggest advantage is the disks seem to last so much longer. There is less heat build up and more of the pad is used

[Arlin Eastman]

I wish I would have seen this two weeks ago since I go thru a lot of them with those I teach.  It seems it does not matter how slow the lathe goes.  I just bought two 2" sanding pads and it cost me almost $50 with shipping.

Now I can make as many as I need.

Thank you very much for posting this

[stoppy]

Thanks for posting this idea. I hate changing disks all the time.

[mbg]

I saw this on youtube to make sanding disc holders. Yes Vinces and others are very good, but these were cheap and vortex resistant.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G44HICpHgqg
He uses harbor freight hex bits and also hex bit holder as shown.  I have found that so far it is easier to change holders instead of just the paper.  I cut the blocks with hole saw, used kneeling pad and Velcro from HD,
Got a link to mine.
=144197356&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0]http://s1042.photobucket.com/user/bobwoodpictuers/media/IMG_0910_zpsms7ccjv2.jpg.html?filters[user]=144197356&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0

I know do-it-yourself is cheaper but does anyone have experience with the Roloc system Ken Rizza at Woodturning Wonders offers? Looks like this would make a quick on/off pad but probably need the ROS too since I doubt you can run them if forward/reverse on a drill.

Mike

[diverjo]

I have also made some sanding disc holders from the HF bits.  Easy to make and they last a good long time.  I have them in the 1" size and the 2"size.  As far as the ROS go, I have the Metabo 3" ROS.  It works great on platters and other larger pieces.
Joe

[Arlin Eastman]

We used them all the time in the military and I loved them for the metal working stuff.  I know the pads are probely not soft but they should work.  I still have a 2" and 3" pads so if you find someplace to get them cheaply let me know.  They do have the Green, Red and Yellow things to use with them also.  Not sanding paper but what my wife uses for dishwashing.

[MKepke]

FWIW, I use a cheap HF air sander
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-angle-s...93629.html

The HF air sander is aggressive and leaves a good finish, but is noisy and fairly air-hungry 4 cfm @ 90 psi.  I run it on an oiled 25 gallon compressor..occasionally need to wait for a catch-up.  But I generally stop sanding often enough to check progress that it isn't a big deal.

Since it uses a 1/4-20 threaded rod to hold the Velcro backing pad in place, you can't use hex drivers or hex driver extenders to make spare sanding pad holders.

You can however use high-strength bolts instead of hex bits and apply the same techniques. 

I make my backing pads out of cheap foam flip-flops.  Check a clearance bin..there are usually a variety of thicknesses and foam densities to pick from.  Flip flops in large sizes usually have both thicker and denser foam for obvious reasons.

I haven't worked out how to make a suitable 'extender' yet - I tried tapping and threading a common bolt-shank, but the steel is much too soft and bent under load (since there is little cross-section in a 1/4-20 thread). A Grade 8 bolt with the head cut off and a common 1/4-20 coupler welded on might work.

-Mark

[MichaelMouse]

I know do-it-yourself is cheaper but does anyone have experience with the Roloc system Ken Rizza at Woodturning Wonders offers? Looks like this would make a quick on/off pad but probably need the ROS too since I doubt you can run them if forward/reverse on a drill.

Mike

Not the Roloc, rather the Merit system is what I've been using for probably 20 years or more.  Beats the soft back stuff all hollow when used as I use it, with a handle supported on the toolrest. 

http://vid35.photobucket.com/albums/d160...Sand-1.mp4

Since you don't have to press to abrade, the disks don't heat, but you can't really use them on a static piece - too aggressive - so you will have to keep some soft back pads around.

Why on earth would you need to run them in reverse?  Rotate the piece being sanded and the disk sanding it.  Means the angle changes constantly, based on differential rpm and distance from center.  Use the stiff disk at 240, set the fuzz, and sand by hand with C320 with the grain to eliminate any cross-grain scratch.

Comes in a flex edge for small work, too.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...Edge-2.jpg