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Only time I have heard of the screws hitting was when using our carbide tipped knives. They are thicker and therefore the support bar is not needed and some folks try to use it but it pushes the screw heads too far out and they will hit the wood.
Sounds like Joe might have the answer though.
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oh, snap. I use the thicker Infinity blades. I wonder if that is my problem.
They told me anybody could do it, but I showed them.
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did it all ways joe, the hell with it... sand paper after I get it done!
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you might try wetting the surface then; sometimes that will stop it from lifting too much wood on the surface
but sanding works too
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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If you wet the wood I suggest using Mineral Spirits to do it. It flashes off really quickly, and you aren't running wet lumber through. My first planer was rusted shut when I got it, guy did this using water all the time on curly maple, thing was a mess. Also try feeding at an angle which will work fine on narrower stock. With, then against the grain.
Don't use Alder, not found in Ohio, but with pine, and spruce I have seen similar, and with that a lighter pass fixes it, so you may try lightening up on your depth.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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I think it's heat. Why? when I first start planing alder - no streaks. ( I have about 16 boards) after about 20-25 minutes, streaks begin to appear. When there are 2, the distance between each is the distance between two screws holding the knifes. (1 1/4" )
I have taken this unit apart. placed a board under it, then rotated the knifes. Nothing touches the wood under. The alder is not scratched, using 120, 220 grit sandpaper, it goes away.
Oak is fine. I am dumbfounded. I am trying to contact Dewalt. Only two parts touch the wood; knifes and the rubber rollers. It's a pain in the butt to have to sand more, but, I'd be doing it anyway.
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makes no difference which end you feed, spray water on, whatever. Noting is hitting it yet it streaks. Also now on Cherry. It's ewasy to sand off but a pain in the butt
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At this point a picture of the problem would be nice
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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has anyone had experience changing a belt on the dewalt 735? I am having great difficulty getting the cylinder back on with the belt on it. The belt is very stiff. If anyone has any suggestions, would very much appreciate your input.
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Infinity Tools make several type blades as replacements for DeWalts 735 blades which many believe are of poor quality. I use the Infinity carbide tipped blades. They cut beautifully and leave no streaks-they are the same way on figured wood-both curley and birds eye leave no tear out. For this I use great care; the slow speed for cutting and very light cuts.
The carbide tipped blades go for $229 which are worth it. Only good wood goes through-no nails, no sand, no loose knots. etc. No one else is allowed to use the planer. As a hobbyist acquaintances have asked me to do wood from pallets, etc-junk wood that is politely turned down. Another option are the Byrd cutters which are more expensive. My planer is not used in a production environment. I do mostly furniture which takes a long time to complete.
Paul from the beautiful mid-coast of Maine (USA)
