Old Oak Drafting Table Refinish

[Steve N]

A few other thoughts. You can use the shellac, or sanding sealer on the face and edge grain as well, not just the end grain. On blotchy woods like Pine, Maple, and some Cherry it allows a consistent intake of your stain, or DYE.

The other thought is if it is a quicky project where you don't care as much about the finish, stain is OK. If it is a piece you want to showcase, start playing around with water based dyes, you can concoct as many colors as there are stains, and it penetrates the wood, so consistency is more easily achieved.

Also Welcome to WoodNet

[TomFromStLouis]

I know lots of people regularly use tack cloths, but I switched to compressed air and never looked back for a that particular step, especially with ring porous woods like oak. Just sayin'.

[MikeBob]

I know lots of people regularly use tack cloths, but I switched to compressed air and never looked back for a that particular step, especially with ring porous woods like oak. Just sayin'.

Air or vacuum first, then a wipe clean is what I do and have read in finishing books.

[K. L. McReynolds]

Welcome to the Zoo!

And to one of the most discussed and cussed areas of woodworking.

Lots---and I mean LOTS---of experience, ideas, and techniques here. Some pros, a few very accomplished amateurs, and a passel of us who started out like you and now are a bit more experienced.

Flexnor's books are pretty much the Bibles for finishing.

I started out taking the advice for tack cloths, found I was having problems, saw info that the premade kind leave stuff behind(causing fisheye), tried making my own(miserable failure) and decided my specific situation(outside unconditioned shed---er---shop) was the problem.

I found a pretty simply solution. A combination of the compressed air followed by wiping with a cotton(Tshirt) cloth dampened with the solution used as the base of the stain/finish I was going to use. Water for water based, thinner for oil based, alcohol(or water) for shellac, and lacquer thinner for lacquer.

Now, using alcohol or lacquer thinner indoors is not a good idea, even with good ventilation. So, now that I have a basement shop, I only use the first two. I use a shop vac in place of the compressed air to help keep the dust down. I use a lot of shellac now, and water does fine as a cleaner as long as I add drying time. Any lacquer finishing is done outside(garage/doors open) and with a respirator. I usually wipe once, get a fresh rag and wipe again. Have been known to wash rags(don't tell LOML

!) to keep the Tshirt cost down.

Most of us started out in the same situation you are in. And folks here helped us learn. Don't be afraid to ask and you will learn quickly.

[Banchee24]

I did as you suggested and it came out perfectly. In fact better than before I used the water. Thanks again.

[TDKPE]

Post pictures when it's done. I used to use drafting tables both for drafting, then as a work surface for paper plots and just spreading out once CAD took over. They used to be worthless, but now they're getting hard to find.