resawing

[jteneyck]

Which 14" Laguna; how many HP?  Some of them will take a 3/4" blade, some can't - even though Laguna may claim it can.  4 tpi is going to be pretty slow going through 8" oak if you only have 1 or 1.5 HP, and can't put very much tension on the blade.  If it's a 3 HP saw then it should saw pretty well, though it would cut faster with a 3 tpi blade. 

I would be pretty sure your $30 blade is NOT bi-metal.  A carbon or spring steel blade can still cut really well as long as it's sharp, but they can dull really quickly. 

John

[Mr Eddie]

Have you ever tripped the breaker before using this blade?  Did you try resawing a smaller board to see what happens?  I'd try another blade and go thru the setup process again.  I've got a 14/12 with a Resaw King blade which I think is 3/4" - 3 tpi.  It cuts well but most of the stock I resaw is probably 6" or less.  Something is really wrong to be tripping the breaker.

Lonnie

[LongLook]

I have a 1412 and in order to prevent my old mind from forgetting to tension the unit, I pin the yellow safety chip from the switch to the tension arm with a magnet so I at least have a reminder to do the right thing.  So far so good but you never know what I can manage to screw up.

[WilliamHodge]

Is your wood clean?

Grit on wood will dull your blade fast, and cause the trouble you describe.

I have seen people put wood on concrete, shop floors, truck beds, etc., and try to machine it. Standing wood on end on a floor will smash grit into the end. If this is not cut off, you will start your cut with a load of grit.  Always put your wood on clean stickers, on a bench, cart, or the floor.

Another problem is machining sanded wood. The particles dull the blades fast.

I keep an old power plane handy to clean up dirty wood. Even wood from the wholesaler will come in with sand on it. The covered trucks they have started using have made a big improvement.

WH

[retfr8flyr]

I have a Shop Fox W1706 14 inch bandsaw, with the extension neck, so 105 inch blade. I have the Laguna Rewsaw King on mine and it cuts through everything I have tried without any problems. I just got through resawing some 5/4 curly maple and it came out like glass. Get a Resaw King  blade, to do your Laguna justice.

[rwe2156]

I would get the best quality resaw  blade you can afford and try again.  I believe this is your problem.

You shouldn't have to push that hard even with oak.  I'm betting the blade got hot and annealed causing you to overload the motor.

[Derek Cohen]

I have a 14" Laguna bandsaw that I purchased a couple of months ago.  Today I tried resawing some 8" wide x 7' long oak boards.  They were about 2 inches thick and I wanted to resaw them to 1 and 1/4 inches.  I am using a 3/4 inch blade, 4 teeth/inch.  It took considerable effort to push these boards through the saw and as the motor got hot, it repeatedly threw the circuit breaker in my fuse box.  Is this normal?  If not, what am I doing wrong?  Thanks

Art, this sounds as though the kerf is closing up on the blade. Did you experience difficulty removing the board from the saw/blade? If so, the wood is reacting.

You should not need to push the wood though the saw. When this occurs, the blade will load up and veer off track.

While I would prefer less teeth in the blade, 4 tpi should not cause this problem, especially with a new blade. So it appears to me to be the wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[alnandy]

4 teeth per inch is a bad choice for resawing hard or thick lumber.   There simply isn't enough space for the chips to clear out.  The buildup of chips is what causes the heat buildup.   2 teeth per inch is a much better choice.   Searching on Grizzly, for example, you'll see 2/3 Pos Claw or 2 tpi hook.   These will cut much better, although they'll leave a rougher surface.
A deep throat on the teeth is also important for clearing our chips.
When you resaw you should let the saw tell you how fast to go.   We have, on occasion, used 4 teeth per inch blades to resaw, but we go much more slowly.

[Steve N]

4 teeth per inch is a bad choice for resawing hard or thick lumber.   There simply isn't enough space for the chips to clear out.  The buildup of chips is what causes the heat buildup.   2 teeth per inch is a much better choice.  

I love these guys for buying my BS blades I'm not sure if they offer it for every saw/length, but for my Rikon they have a 1.3 tooth per inch in 1" and over even a 2 or 3 TPI blade it makes a noticeable difference in the sawing. It isn't a rake angle that removes the swarth after the cut, it's how much gullet space you have to carry it away. Al bagged it, and yes heat kills anything metal with an edge.

P.S. I grew up hearing "swarth" as the fine dust that clogs up many cuts on any tool with a blade. It seems to be worst with a tall resaw. The blade is trapped inside the cut, so the swarth must carry until the portion of the blade loaded up clears the wood, and the DC under the blade pulls it away. Having a lot more gullet space for temporary storage is why the low tooth count blades work so well. The one I get are simple steel, no carbide, and they cut much longer than even some cheap carbide blades did with 3 and 4 teeth/inch.

[jteneyck]

Not "swarth", Steve.  Swarf.

swarf
/swôrf/

noun

• 1. fine chips or filings of stone, metal, or other material produced by a machining operation. "a curl of metal swarf"
  

John