glue squeeze out

[Stwood_]

I let the glue rubber up, then a paint scraper.

Waxing may be fine, but just looks like another step to do.

[DaveR1]

Wow, Edwin! That's amazing. Give Lady my love.

Believe it or not, I still have some of that hickory sawdust you gave me with that cast iron box. I used some the other day to smoke a piece of salmon on our Pit Barrel Cooker.

Time flies.

[Malix]

On my latest project, which is , a QSWO cabinet/fireplace mantel I am building in to my hearth.  I decided to use Titebond hide glue.  I did some research and found that Schwartz uses it.  Then tried some on scraps. So far i love it. Its been warm out so the consistency has been great right out of the bottle ( Winter may require warming in lukewarm water for  few minutes). 

Longer set up time is  real nice. Yellow glue  is usually just a bit too fast for me (always makes me feel rushed). With the hide glue as soon as the clamps are on I wipe with a damp rag.  after some use, I noticed the small wood scraps i used to pour glue into to dip my acid brush when gluing up projects looks awfully like a finished piece of wood once the glue dried on it.   after noticing this I stopped worrying about squeeze out any more than wiping it down with a damp rag.Turns out this stuff  so far completely disappears once the finish is applied to the project. Unlike yellow glue which shows up along the joint lines where I was not careful enough on early projects. 

I still need to experiment with dyes and hide glue but Schwartz mentioned the fact that hide glue disappears under the finish. i think he said dyes and stains also are not affected by Hide glue. We’ll see.

Sure its not appropriate for projects that will be near moisture but for those projects that won’t I will keep using this glue.  Makes squeeze out a non issue.

BTW.. Based on testing with scraps glue strength is stonger than the wood itself like other glues.  In case any were curious.

[YSU65]

I just built four kitchen stools. I finished all parts before the final glue up because of the problem of poly drips and dribbles around lots of joints.  I taped off the tenons before applying the finish to keep them free of the poly.  Worked well, TB I squeeze out just wiped off the surfaces.

[Steve N]

I've used the following method for many years and it's always worked well.

I dry clamp the pieces and rub a bar of paraffin along the joints making sure to cover the wood on both sides. It doesn't need to be a very wide smath of paraffin. Then I go ahead and glue the pieces together and let the squeeze out form little beads where it will.. The little bit of squeeze sits on the paraffin and can't soak into the wood. A few swipes with a card scraper remove the dried glue and the paraffin. If you're using an oil based finish, it will dissolve any remaining paraffin but yu can also wipe it down with mineral spirits before applying any finish. The mineral spirits will help you confirm you didn't miss any spots with the paraffin, too.

I used to do this on advice from a really good woodworker, as before I did the Norm thing and wiped it off fresh with a wet rag, and constantly had issues with stain taking along the glue lines.

Now I do the let it cure about an hour, and using a card scraper I scrape it off. It comes off cleanly, and I don't have any issues with finish being affected, stain, dye, or natural.