Which trim bit to choose for mortising door hinges?

[sweensdv2]

For the cost of some of the bits mentioned you could just buy this jig, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Door-Hi.../202078674 , and it comes with a bit.  It will do both 1/4 and 5/8 radius hinges.  It works very well, for what it is, when setup properly and the cost won't break the bank.

[museumguy]

For the cost of some of the bits mentioned you could just buy this jig, http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Door-Hi.../202078674 , and it comes with a bit.  It will do both 1/4 and 5/8 radius hinges.  It works very well, for what it is, when setup properly and the cost won't break the bank.

Honestly, this is probably your best bet. It appears to do most readily available hinges. It is cheaper than the 1 1/4" D bit I suggested and you don't have to make a template. I may get one myself.

Anyone need an 1 1/4" D router bit ? Just saying.

[MstrCarpenter]

Are you choosing the 5/8" radius hinges based on what's existing? I have fit and hung hundreds of doors in existing openings and absolutely hate working with 5/8" radius hinges. I don't have a production door shop, so I don't want to use hinges that were specifically designed for their machines. There are obviously ways that will work but I haven't found any that are accurate and repeatable. I'll only do one or two (basically by tracing) if the original hinges are still in the existing jamb. The big orange store has a few jigs that claim to work with 5/8" radius, I've tried several, and they don't work for me. The mortises are so sloppy that I can't mount half the leafs on the door and expect them to line up with the ones on the jamb.
    I would much rather use the next size larger, 1/4" radius hinges and make a quick jig to rout for all three hinges on the existing jamb in place. I can catch almost all of the dust with a small shop-vac and not mess up the paint job. I use the same jig to rout three mortises on the door outside or even back at my shop. Using this method, I can carry a finished door with the hinges and handle set installed into the job and the hinge leafs actually fit together! My jigs work basically the same way as the "professional" 30# door hinge kits do; they're not adjustable, but it only takes a few minutes to glue and tack together six pieces cut from a single 6' 1x4.
   In case you're interested the pieces are 1@ 1/4" x 6', 1 @ 1/2"-3/4" x 6', 2 @ 2" x 7", 2 @ 2" x approx. 26". The 2" pieces are exactly positioned between the 6' pieces by using a new hinge as a spacer during assembly. Part of an old hinge leaf screwed to the top makes a good spacer/hook. (I usually also have to bevel the 1/4" strip to make sure it hits the door stop tight.)  In use, I wedge the jig to the head jamb with a short stick, and to the side jamb with longer sticks (no clamps, screw or nail holes required). Rout with a 1/2" hinge mortising (pattern) bit in a palm router holding the vac hose in your free hand. If you cut the top spacer 3/4" wide, you can do both LH and RH jambs with no adjustment (assuming the existing mortises are within the new mortise "windows").To rout the doors, I screw a cleat to the 1/4" side of the jig, and to that staple a couple of 1/8" (or less) strips for clearance from the door stop. Turn the spacer so it will hook the top of the door and clamp the cleat to the back side of the door. I use quick clamps at  top, bottom and center, and move a fourth clamp as I move on to the next mortise.

[Steve Soldo]

Are you choosing the 5/8" radius hinges based on what's existing? I have fit and hung hundreds of doors in existing openings and absolutely hate working with 5/8" radius hinges. I don't have a production door shop, so I don't want to use hinges that were specifically designed for their machines. There are obviously ways that will work but I haven't found any that are accurate and repeatable. I'll only do one or two (basically by tracing) if the original hinges are still in the existing jamb. The big orange store has a few jigs that claim to work with 5/8" radius, I've tried several, and they don't work for me. The mortises are so sloppy that I can't mount half the leafs on the door and expect them to line up with the ones on the jamb.
    I would much rather use the next size larger, 1/4" radius hinges and make a quick jig to rout for all three hinges on the existing jamb in place. I can catch almost all of the dust with a small shop-vac and not mess up the paint job. I use the same jig to rout three mortises on the door outside or even back at my shop. Using this method, I can carry a finished door with the hinges and handle set installed into the job and the hinge leafs actually fit together! My jigs work basically the same way as the "professional" 30# door hinge kits do; they're not adjustable, but it only takes a few minutes to glue and tack together six pieces cut from a single 6' 1x4.
   In case you're interested the pieces are 1@ 1/4" x 6', 1 @ 1/2"-3/4" x 6', 2 @ 2" x 7", 2 @ 2" x approx. 26". The 2" pieces are exactly positioned between the 6' pieces by using a new hinge as a spacer during assembly. Part of an old hinge leaf screwed to the top makes a good spacer/hook. (I usually also have to bevel the 1/4" strip to make sure it hits the door stop tight.)  In use, I wedge the jig to the head jamb with a short stick, and to the side jamb with longer sticks (no clamps, screw or nail holes required). Rout with a 1/2" hinge mortising (pattern) bit in a palm router holding the vac hose in your free hand. If you cut the top spacer 3/4" wide, you can do both LH and RH jambs with no adjustment (assuming the existing mortises are within the new mortise "windows").To rout the doors, I screw a cleat to the 1/4" side of the jig, and to that staple a couple of 1/8" (or less) strips for clearance from the door stop. Turn the spacer so it will hook the top of the door and clamp the cleat to the back side of the door. I use quick clamps at  top, bottom and center, and move a fourth clamp as I move on to the next mortise.

I am not necessarily stuck on the idea of 5/8 radius hinges.

However, I am looking for solid brass hinges as the doors are in areas with some moisture.  Invariably other hinges (including brass "plated") rust and you have to replace them.  Solid brass seems to last forever.  

None of my local big box stores sell solid brass hinges (HD, Lowe's).  I found a Baldwin product on Amazon, solid brass with 5/8 radius.  Could not find a square corner.  There is a Stanley hinge that is solid brass but similarly 5/8 radius.  

Do you have an online source for hinges you recommend?

[WilliamHodge]

 

Do you have an online source for hinges you recommend?

House of Antique Hardware

http://www.houseofantiquehardware.com/door-hinges

[MstrCarpenter]

I am not necessarily stuck on the idea of 5/8 radius hinges.

However, I am looking for solid brass hinges as the doors are in areas with some moisture.  Invariably other hinges (including brass "plated") rust and you have to replace them.  Solid brass seems to last forever.  

None of my local big box stores sell solid brass hinges (HD, Lowe's).  I found a Baldwin product on Amazon, solid brass with 5/8 radius.  Could not find a square corner.  There is a Stanley hinge that is solid brass but similarly 5/8 radius.  

Do you have an online source for hinges you recommend?

If it's not available locally I check Amazon, If it's not "prime', I usually check Build .com.. I don't want to spend an hour to save $20.

[Steve Soldo]

If it's not available locally I check Amazon, If it's not "prime', I usually check Build .com.. I don't want to spend an hour to save $20.

Amazon actually does not have much of a section for solid brass hinges.

If you were hanging four doors, with 2 hinges each, $20 each for 8 hinges is $160.  Brother, in my world, that is a fair amount of scratch...

[JGrout]

Amazon actually does not have much of a section for solid brass hinges.

If you were hanging four doors, with 2 hinges each, $20 each for 8 hinges is $160.  Brother, in my world, that is a fair amount of scratch...

while I can appreciate your concerns I think they are really unfounded if you go to a better quality hinge in of brass plated steel 

one example 

another example

and solid brass


Polished Brass
Solid Brass
3-1/2 x 3-1/2

219374
$12.97   

They are going to be 2-4 times more expensive no matter how you cut it 

I have used all three of the above examples and many others and never had a complaint about rust on the hinges using the brass plated steel  

HTH 

[ez-duzit]

In coastal areas, or for high end jobs, I'd stick with solid brass.

[Steve Soldo]

while I can appreciate your concerns I think they are really unfounded if you go to a better quality hinge in of brass plated steel 

one example 

[/url][url=https://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=283246]another example

and solid brass


Polished Brass
Solid Brass
3-1/2 x 3-1/2

219374
$12.97   

They are going to be 2-4 times more expensive no matter how you cut it 

I have used all three of the above examples and many others and never had a complaint about rust on the hinges using the brass plated steel  

HTH 

Actually $13 is a good price for solid brass.  Thank you for the links.

I notice that the Baldwin hinges are $25 each.  Are they worth the extra money?