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I have that shaper. Purchased it new in '05.
The motor plate says 110/220 but they were only sold wired for 110.
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I've talked to Grizzly CS a couple of times and they agreed that the older manuals aren't worth the paper they're printed (pdf'ed?) on. The ones from the early 90's only show a 220V diagram. So I figure, why fight wiring it at 220 when I can easily use it at 220, so forget trying to make it 110. I just wired it the way it was wired when I got it which was how it says to do so in the early 90's manual. Good news is it works in forward and reverse, but the bad news is when the switch is off, there's a loud buzzing from the motor. Any ideas? I'll plan to call Griz tomorrow but thought I'd update the group.
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(09-11-2017, 07:51 PM)cvillewood Wrote: So I figure, why fight wiring it at 220 when I can easily use it at 220, so forget trying to make it 110. I just wired it the way it was wired when I got it which was how it says to do so in the early 90's manual.
I'm lost - what voltage are you connecting it to run on?
The only thing the drum switch does, aside from connecting and disconnecting the motor from the incoming power, is switch the two leads from the start winding between the two mains leads. That's how the motor is reversed - if given a spin manually, it will run equally well in either direction (single-phase motors, of course). It's the start winding that gives it the shove in the direction you want it to turn, and swapping the two leads (probably 5 and 6 in your case) reverses the direction of that push. The centrifugal switch opens, disconnecting the start winding, once it's running fast enough that the available torque (which varies with speed) is high enough to finish the job and run it at full speed under load.
As to your problem, something is obviously not being disconnected. Do you have a multimeter or voltage tester of some sort. A continuity tester?
Tom
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I do have a multimeter. Motor is wired for 220. What should I be testing?
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(09-12-2017, 07:35 AM)cvillewood Wrote: I do have a multimeter. Motor is wired for 220. What should I be testing?
I assume the buzzing starts as soon as you plug in the power cord. It sort of sounds like one of your power wires bypassed the start switch and is directly hooked to the motor
IOW half the power is being directly fed to the motor
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Figured it out finally. Embarrassingly enough, i triple checked the wiring and had a wire off by one spot at the switch. Works just fine now, on 220.
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I was working on a set of schematics (of sorts) to explain how the drum switch works, to aid in looking for the errant connection. Not a very good representation of a reversing drum switch, but you can follow the current direction (relative) at least.
Oh well. But I'm glad you got it working at least.
Tom
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That was very kind of you to work in that schematic! Thank you for the time and effort you put in.
Glad I got it figured out too - now I can move on to other things.
