Waterlox

[Scott W]

Today's water based poly is pretty tough. Wondering why you've kicked it to the curb without trying it.

Only poly I know of is plasticky.

[Scott W]

You definitely don't want poly, as it's a surface finish and it won't live well with knife work.  Waterlox and Arm-R-Seal soak into the wood.  It really depends on how you're going to use your countertop.  Waterlox will impart an amber tone to your maple.

The Wood Whisperer's test was on veneered plywood.  Not exactly a good comparison.  He also didn't pick a winner, and said that all the finishes he used were "great finishes".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PryTA4pzTZ4

You are correct... ...but I did pick some winning features...I do wish he had used solid wood...and the watco had been included.

[Scott W]

I've never heard nor seen anyone doing knifework on a wooden kitchen countertop in a house.
Why slice an expensive top up. Use a cutting board.

Excellent advice.

Filler letters

[Scott W]

For something like that, I might just go with a regular ol' Danish oil, either a commercial one or something you mix up at home.  While it might not have the longevity of the Waterlox, it will dry faster, and it's very simple to reapply if it dulls.  I find it's actually pretty durable on cutting boards if you clean the surface with clear, warm water (no soap).

Are you meaning this?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001007OJ4/ref...MCb6Y0A1HF

[Stwood_]

Have you thought of the old standard, mineral oil?
A gallon jug at the Vets is very reasonable....food grade......not plaskity? Lol.....doesn't stink up the house.

[Roly]

I don't know about the new low VOC Waterlox  but I did the kitchen cabinets with the original.   I didn't think the smell was bad like some oil based varnish, but don't remember the smell lasting a long time.   I did put on many coats of thinned varnish wiped on instead of brushed on.   This may help as each coat could gas out quicker.   Roly

[AHill]

I've never heard nor seen anyone doing knifework on a wooden kitchen countertop in a house.
Why slice an expensive top up. Use a cutting board.

I have.  That's why they call it butcher block.  Installed on kitchen islands, it is often used as a food prep surface.  I've also seen very large end grain cutting boards installed as kitchen islands which doubles as a cutting board. But, if its purpose is purely for a countertop without any possibility of food prep, it almost doesn't matter what finish goes on top. In that case, I would consider poly due to its durability. It should be noted, however, that Waterlox is pretty durable. It was originally invented as a finish for flooring.

[Cooler]

I finished my guest bedroom's floor with Waterlox.  It looks great after 20 years, but it only gets used a couple of days a year.

I finished my hallway with Waterlox too.  It now looks very worn.  My oil based poly stood up much better.

I finished my maple countertops with oil based poly.  I put down one coat of Sealcoat and four heavy coats of oil based Minwax.  I sanded between coats.  

But the key is how long you wait to use the countertop.  They say is is dry in 48 hours (true) but most experts say it takes 200 hours for a "full cure" (about 7 days).  But I have 20 year old pieces finished with Minwax that have a substantailly harder surface than the 1 week old stuff.  So the "full cure" is probably no more that 80%  or so.  

When I put my counters in service I wated 7 days before using it at all and I used cork coasters for a month after that.  I recommend that to you too.  The cork will breath and allow the finish to continue to cure.  A rubber coaster will probably leave a mark (that's a guess).

In any case, I think an oil based poly is going to end up as the hardest finish.  But I use cutting boards and I recommend that too.

A few years from now, I can scuff the surface and lay down a new coat with no problem.

[Phil Thien]

Don’t use a film finish anywhere that someone may accidentally use a knife.

Guests and extended family might not know they can’t cut there.

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I've never heard nor seen anyone doing knifework on a wooden kitchen countertop in a house.
Why slice an expensive top up. Use a cutting board.

I've known people to have counters made with maple *because* they wanted to be able to use it as a work/cutting surface, and one that can be repaired every few years with a sander and reapplication of the finish.