Posts: 2,587
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
(02-26-2020, 11:08 AM)paul2004 Wrote: If you are handy with electrical wire, I think the best solution is to have several wall switches in your shop to turn on the DC. I have four switches in mine near the Bandsaw, tablesaw, mitre saw and workbench. That spaces them pretty evenly across the shop..
I tried remotes. Even when they work, I lose time trying to find the remote.
You are going to drive some poor sucker nuts when he try’s to figure that wiring out one day..
He will be standing in the shop flipping random switches wondering what they do.
Posts: 13,412
Threads: 4
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: New Jersey
To be honest, I "get" why a remote is nice to have. But on the other hand, bending over to push a button on the dust collector is not that big of a deal for me.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
Posts: 2,587
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
(02-26-2020, 12:31 PM)Admiral Wrote: To be honest, I "get" why a remote is nice to have. But on the other hand, bending over to push a button on the dust collector is not that big of a deal for me.
I get what your saying, but having a remote sitting on the table saw fence means I’ll turn on the DC, having to walk behind the saw and hit the switch gets skipped for just a couple quick cuts.
I also must admit I am a gadget guy, so I’ll spend twice as much time and get 4x as much enjoyment out of building something I could have bought cheaper...
But that’s why I am a woodworker, metalworker, welder, amateur electrician etc.
Duke
Posts: 2,387
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Irving, Tx
I shouldn't be, but I am blown away by all the responses. Guys I am highly intimidated by the contactor / relay and etc. discussion.
Guess I will be grateful for what I have and start exploring new remotes.
I really do appreciate so many of you sharing your way of "skinning the cat".
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
If you change your mind about the contactor, check back. It's not very hard to build and many of us can talk you through it. If you're interested a Woodnetter wrote a really good article with drawings about building one...his was 240V, but a 120V would be quite similar. Click the link at the bottom of the list.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 2,587
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2001
(02-26-2020, 03:15 PM)fredhargis Wrote: If you change your mind about the contactor, check back. It's not very hard to build and many of us can talk you through it. If you're interested a Woodnetter wrote a really good article with drawings about building one...his was 240V, but a 120V would be quite similar. Click the link at the bottom of the list.
That’s a great link with good pictures to go by, if you can build something from wood, you can easily make one of these remotes.
Posts: 6,704
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2006
Following what everyone has said and agreeing with TDKPE, I do think Admirals link to the 40 amp remote will work well for you. They describe it as okay for motors, without specifically saying so.
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
(02-26-2020, 04:28 PM)Shaun Wrote: Following what everyone has said and agreeing with TDKPE, I do think Admirals link to the 40 amp remote will work well for you. They describe it as okay for motors, without specifically saying so.
I agree. It cross-references to a Cutler-Hammer C25BNB240A, which is rated for 3 hp at 120V and 7.5 hp at 240V. Being horsepower rated, it's designed for the relatively huge inrush current when it closes and the potential arcing when it opens.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 2,540
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
I didn't read every reply in detail I'll admit, but I recently got a remote for my (much smaller Jet 650) DC, and in reading the manual it said that often times the motors, once on, can mess up the signal from the remote. So either place the receiver further away from the unit, or "construct a Faraday cage around the motor." I put that in quotes, not because I don't know what it is, but because I found the language amusing, like everyone should know what it is and how to do it... I also had to follow the procedure on the sticker to sync the remote signal to the receiver.
Just some food for thought that maybe the answer is simple or just around the corner.
Benny
Posts: 33
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2016
Location: Toledo, Ohio
(02-26-2020, 02:54 PM)Bill Holt Wrote: I shouldn't be, but I am blown away by all the responses. Guys I am highly intimidated by the contactor / relay and etc. discussion.
Guess I will be grateful for what I have and start exploring new remotes.
I really do appreciate so many of you sharing your way of "skinning the cat".
I had a friend 30 years ago that had a simple system of switches activated by the dust collector blast gates. Finally installed my own version a couple of days ago. Here is a short video of the installation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLt7gfYgh6I
The controller is a simple relay available on Amazon for less than $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVH...UTF8&psc=1
A switch, outlet, metal or plastic workbox, wire and a bag of microswitches (less than $7) is everything needed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MW3...UTF8&psc=1
There are several videos available with step by step guides, I used this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqJ1gggJfO4
John Barfield johnbarfielddesign.com
|