Posts: 4,814
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
I'm plumbing in my Dust Gorilla in my new shop, using Oneida ductwork. i have a few pieces on order. I think I can get enough machines hooked up that I can use them, but that will leave at lest one 5" line wide open to the room. Aside from putting a blast gate on it, what would be a good way to temporarily seal it off so that I can run my DC?
Thanks.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
Posts: 892
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Trout Creek, Montana
I had to block off one of my ducts temporarily. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood a little larger than the duct and duct taped it on the end of the pipe.
Treat others as you want to be treated.
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” — Mae West.
24- year cancer survivor
Posts: 12,605
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
The plywood trick is probably as easy as anything, and it works well.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 4,814
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
(09-04-2021, 02:46 PM)lift mechanic Wrote: I had to block off one of my ducts temporarily. I cut a piece of 1/4" plywood a little larger than the duct and duct taped it on the end of the pipe.
Love it. Thanks. Will do.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
I have a 2-1/2” over my TS that’s waiting for a guard with DC port, and I just stuck a duct plug in it. Galvanized, with crimped male. The vacuum keeps it in place.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 923
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 1999
Location: Williston ND
I used 3/4 ply to make a plug on a disk sander with a circle sanding attachment and the table set at a small angle. Then screwed a knob on where the center pivot point was located on the ply plug and Bob is my uncle. A removable plug. Been using it for many years.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
Posts: 70
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2017
Jeez, as a wood worker I should have used wood! My quick fix is a quart freezer bag and duct tape. Also used this on my blast gates that don't have a tool hooked up. With the DC running I can see every gate leaks by the bags sucking in.
Posts: 1,600
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
<p>I have used a large 1 qt (I think) tapered plastic yogurt container, it slides in easily and securely into the unused 4" Y at the collector. Not sure it would seal/not get sucked into a 5" duct, but the principle remains...</p>
Posts: 4,814
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
<p>Thanks, everyone. As it turned out, the one line I can't connect to a machine yet ends at a blast gate, so I'm good.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
Posts: 8,395
Threads: 1
Joined: Mar 2000
<p>I have 5" ducting for my DC. I just got done reconfiguring the system, and to provide temporary closed ends so I could use the system while the reconfig was in progress, I used a tee cap that I keep around for the purpose. Got it a couple years back at the big box store; cost was less than $5, IIRC.</p><p><br></p><p>
<br></p>
|
