dado for glass inserts on doors
#19
What's been said above. The bearing on a rabbeting bit will ride on the edge of the centermost piece of wood in your profile, I hope this is large enough to see, but in the pic the piece is laying upside down (for hand held router) and the bit rides where the arrow is. The cutter removes the wood (assuming it's sized properly) that's in your way.
   
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#20
(01-31-2022, 01:01 PM)fredhargis Wrote: What's been said above. The bearing on a rabbeting bit will ride on the edge of the centermost piece of wood in your profile, I hope this is large enough to see, but in the pic the piece is laying upside down (for hand held router) and the bit rides where the arrow is. The cutter removes the wood (assuming it's sized properly) that's in your way.

Fred;

I've been confusing a rabbeting bit with a trim bit. However, I finally got a template to right size made and with that couples with a chisel & sandpaper I got the job done.

I've been wanting to remove the inside portion where the stile cutter was used. This is so glass will lay flat and then I'll make wooden stays except the arches. There I will just use silicone.

Based on what you said, a rabbiting bit's cutters extend past the guide. But I've never seen anything like that. Help me out here please.

Jim
Jim
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#21
Like this, this set has multiple bearings for different depths of cut:
   
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#22
(01-31-2022, 03:27 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Like this, this set has multiple bearings for different depths of cut:

Yes I have seen these and never paid any attention to them before.
Jim
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#23
Remember if you remove the lip? you will have to either cut a thin strip of curved wood to replace it (you will have short grain that will break). You could cut a straight piece and steam it or glaze it in. The other way to handle this was used centuries ago. The top of the arch was cut was rebated so it looks like a trapezoid., that way you could have 3 straight pieces of wood strips holding the top in. I would also suggest that you put a thin strip of clear caulking down to bed the glass to keep it from rattling and breaking.
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#24
(01-31-2022, 05:16 PM)TheCabinetmaker Wrote: Remember if you remove the lip? you will have to either cut a thin strip of curved wood to replace it (you will have short grain that will break). You could cut a straight piece and steam it or glaze it in. The other way to handle this was used centuries ago. The top of the arch was cut was rebated so it looks like a trapezoid., that way you could have 3 straight pieces of wood strips holding the top in. I would also suggest that you put a thin strip of clear caulking down to bed the glass to keep it from rattling and breaking.

Yea. I've done this several times but never with an arch. Thanks

Jim
Jim
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#25
(01-31-2022, 03:27 PM)fredhargis Wrote: Like this, this set has multiple bearings for different depths of cut:

Thanks Fred. Although my current project doesn't need this now, I ordered one from Rockler with 15% off and free shipping I saved almost $30. The next time I do something like this I'll have it on hand.

Jim
Jim
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#26
You'll find it very useful.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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