#14
Planning on adding leather faces to my bench vise, I had them on the old bench and liked the more secure grip than I get with the hard wood faces on my new bench. But that got me thinking: would the grip be better if the rough surface faced the work pieces? Every bench I've seen has the smooth surfaces facing out, but is that because it's better, because it looks nicer on the showroom floor, or just because that's the way it's always been done?

Thoughts?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#15
It sounds like you'd be OK with the looks either way, so why not go with whatever grips the work better?

Put a weight on the leather, clip a fishing scale to it, see how much force it takes to move it. Flip the leather and see if there's a significant difference. If a fishing scale isn't available, some string over the side of the workbench with varying amount of weights attached could be an indicator.
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#16
I'd be concerned that the unfinished surface would hold debris than might mar the surface.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#17
(01-06-2020, 10:35 AM)Wild Turkey Wrote: I'd be concerned that the unfinished surface would hold debris than might mar the surface.

That's an interesting thought. Monitor and vacuum?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#18
(01-06-2020, 11:13 AM)Scouter Wrote: That's an interesting thought. Monitor and vacuum?

Brass bristle flux brush from the Borg. Handy for all kinds of uses.

I use true poplar (popple) jaws on mine. Deforms without split. Interlocked grain, y'know.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
Whichever face you decide to use, I would want to make them removable. I have found that there are times when I need the vise jaws to hold a part without any compression. This is why we use hard maple rather than pine for vise jaws. 

In addition, replacing the leather faces if they get damaged or work will be much easier.

I would look at a wood substrate with leather bonded on. The back of the jaw cover can have dowels that mate with holes in the hardwood jaws. A couple of rare earth magnets will keep them in place.

This set up would also allow for special jaw covers for holding round or odd shaped items.
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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#20
(01-06-2020, 11:04 AM)handi Wrote: Whichever face you decide to use, I would want to make them removable. I have found that there are times when I need the vise jaws to hold a part without any compression. This is why we use hard maple rather than pine for vise jaws. 

In addition, replacing the leather faces if they get damaged or work will be much easier.

I would look at a wood substrate with leather bonded on. The back of the jaw cover can have dowels that mate with holes in the hardwood jaws. A couple of rare earth magnets will keep them in place.

This set up would also allow for special jaw covers for holding round or odd shaped items.

I was considering a spray adhesive, I have found that they peel off easily. There is some residue, but goop removes that. Sound good?
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#21
I used spray adhesive on mine, no complaints.

Ed
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#22
(01-06-2020, 11:22 AM)EdL Wrote: I used spray adhesive on mine, no complaints.

Ed

Thanks.
Mike

I work on the 50-50-90 rule: If there's a 50-50 choice, I'll pick the wrong one 90% of the time!
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#23
Given the jaw clamping pressure, it doesn't matter which side of the leather is used. My vises have the smooth and rough leather faces installed for years, and no difference has been observed whatsoever.

Simon
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Rough or smooth?


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