Outdoor Shutter Design Help

[bpatters69]

Hello All,

I need to build and install outdoor shutters on our house... honey do list.

The picture below is the design I plan to follow. It is not too difficult but I will have to build a jig to cut out the horizontal openings you see at the top. I am not planning to cut out the horizontal openings all the way through as that would compromise the structure. I am planning to use 3/4" material but I am not sure what type of wood to use. My wife wants me to match the wood (as best I can) to the new garage door we are buying. I may go with Spanish Cedar, Plain old Cedar or Cypress. 

As you can see, there is one stretcher at the top and a support piece at the bottom. I was thinking of adding a stretcher to the bottom but I guess it looks ok the way it is. As an alternative, I may skip the support piece at the bottom and instead install another stretcher. Depends on what SWMBO thinks.

For glue up, I plan to glue the outside vertical pieces but not the middle piece to the stretcher. I kind of see this as a panel door where the rails and stiles get glued together but the panel floats. Anyone agree or disagree? I live in SE Florida so there is not as much variation in the temperature. Its either hot or really hot. The shutters will be faux and I will attach them to the cinderblock via Tapcons.

Any other suggestions.

Thanks, Bill

[jteneyck]

If you plan to screw it to the wall then there are few structural issues to be concerned with; any design you like will be ok as long as the boards can expand/contract as they want.  I would put some standoffs on the back side so that air can circulate freely.  

One alternative to solid wood would be MDO or Extira (sp)  Using a panel would allow you to route those openings all the way through if you wanted to.  You could add solid wood stiles and battens, etc. w/o worry of expansion issues.  Of course, this assumes you are going to paint them.  



John

[Gary G™]

The bottom batten is going to collect water and cause rot.
I think a lower stretcher slightly taller than the top stretcher would be better.
In fact, the top one looks a little too narrow for my taste.

[joe1086]

If you go with a stretcher on the bottom, bevel the top edge to shed water.

[bpatters69]

Thanks for the feedback.

I should have mentioned, I plan to stain the wood to match (or come close) our new garage door.

I have been looking at IPE, Spanish Cedar and Cypress.

[bpatters69]

Hello all. Here is the almost finished product. The pieces on the right will be installed horizontally at the bottom of each shutter. I may put on another coat of stain to see if that even things out a bit but I don't mind it the won't is now.

Each shutter weighs about 20 pounds. What are the votes for how to install them in concrete block? Red Head has these nails in a sleeve where you basically drill a hole and then pound the nail and the case expands. Seems very easy. I could do Tapcons. Hilti has a carriage bolt type faster but instead of pounding, you turn a bolt and the case expands.

[MstrCarpenter]

Hello all. Here is the almost finished product. The pieces on the right will be installed horizontally at the bottom of each shutter. I may put on another coat of stain to see if that even things out a bit but I don't mind it the won't is now.

Each shutter weighs about 20 pounds. What are the votes for how to install them in concrete block? Red Head has these nails in a sleeve where you basically drill a hole and then pound the nail and the case expands. Seems very easy. I could do Tapcons. Hilti has a carriage bolt type faster but instead of pounding, you turn a bolt and the case expands.

I vote for 2"- 3"- #10 S.S. panhead tapping screws. Spray paint the heads if desired (something other than Tapcon blue). Push plastic rawls into holes instead of attempting to thread concrete. I have added Tapcon screws to the list of items i have no interest of ever using again.

I would make a full size template with the required holes and use it to mark the holes on the shutters and the wall. Sure, we could use a tape and framing square, but let's do that once; on a work bench, not up on a wall. Using a template also assures me that the first time i go up a ladder with the shutter it's ready to run the screws in. I'd rather drop a scrap of 1/4" ply. than the custom built shutter.

[bpatters69]

And now for the attachment.

[Gary G™]

I use 3/8” Redhead expanding bolts like the Hilti’s you describe.

[bpatters69]

I use 3/8” Redhead expanding bolts like the Hilti’s you describe.

Thanks.

How long of a bolt would you get?

For the top of the shutter, the material thickness will be 3/4" but the bottom will be 1 1/2" thick of material as I will be drilling through the shutter and a horizontal piece that is also 3/4" thick.

My house is made of concrete block. Concrete blocks are supposed to be 1 1/4" thick. I don't think they fill them with concrete as I have used Tapcons in other places and I can tell from drilling that after about an inch, I am drilling into air.

So assuming I am not going to bury the heads, I need a bolt that is 2" for the top and 2 3/4" for the bottom. I know they don't make a 2 3/4" bolt so I am guessing 2" bolt for the top and 3" for the bottom? I want to be careful that the expansion part is not hitting the hollow part of the block or does it matter?