(01-29-2022, 10:58 PM)Hank Knight Wrote: I agree with Halfthumb: 1/4" plywood should be plenty strong enough for the back of your cabinet. if you glue it and brad it into a rebate all the way around the perimeter fo the back of the cabinet it should be rock solid and keep the case square. No pocket screws needed.
I thought about rabbets at the rear when I entertained the idea of using a 1/4" thick back, but that would reduce the internal space by 1/4", giving me only an 1/8" space between the panels I need to store and the inside of the closed doors.
I have 2'x 4' Birch plywood I had intended to use for the sides. (The face frame would add 3/4 inches to that 2 feet).
(01-29-2022, 11:38 PM)Cabinet Monkey Wrote: Pocket screws are not really going to add “stability” to a back panel.
So, I guess I can get away with just gluing the entire cabinet together.
(01-30-2022, 12:09 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: Guessing at the measurements, the entire cabinet, including a back and plywood doors could be made from a single sheet but you may need to use thick edge-banding to maintain 24-3/8' inside. Your plan also shows a dado for the bottom shelf but a butt joint for the top??? If you're not planning to cut dados/grooves in the back for dividers, than 1/4" ply. nailed into a rabbet will be sufficient. Why would you even consider pocket screws would be needed?
I can't quite make the cabinet out of a single 4'x 8' sheet. Especially since the drawing above was only a basic example of what I want to do. The attached image below is the closest thing I could find on the internet, but I'm
not building a podium or hostess station. Nevertheless, the sides and rear will raise above the top surface, and the doors will only cover the 12 compartments.
I assume you are referring to the very top when you say "butt joint". I'm my attempt to make the drawing as simple as possible I omitted the raised sides and rear, which will add several more inches to the total height.
And I mentioned the problem with using a Rabbet at the rear, but yes, I wanted to cut Dadoes in the back for the compartment dividers. I'm assuming the best way to go about making the compartments is to cut 1/4" slots halfway through each and then fit the horizontal to the vertical pieces.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.